Sal Paradise 57 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 finally went to Advance to get my "service engine soon" light checked on (hey, it didn't say HOW soon. soon could be within a couple years, which I'm well within). I forget the actual code (thought it was 42, but googled that and that isn't right I don't think) but she said it was for an oxygen sensor. that something I could replace on my own fairly easily you think? 2002 chevy silverado 4x4 5.3Lif not, how much would it cost to take it to a shop to have them do, and possibly do a more complete scan to make sure that's what it needs? i.e. that it's not just faulty wiring or something. Link to post Share on other sites
SBriand 4 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 finally went to Advance to get my "service engine soon" light checked on (hey, it didn't say HOW soon. soon could be within a couple years, which I'm well within). I forget the actual code (thought it was 42, but googled that and that isn't right I don't think) but she said it was for an oxygen sensor. that something I could replace on my own fairly easily you think? 2002 chevy silverado 4x4 5.3Lif not, how much would it cost to take it to a shop to have them do, and possibly do a more complete scan to make sure that's what it needs? i.e. that it's not just faulty wiring or something.o2 sensors are about $60-$70. I had one replaced a loooong time ago and it was about $250 so i suspect it would be more nowadays. I have no idea how to replace it yourself.Edit: seems easy enoughhttp://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive...927.html?page=2 Link to post Share on other sites
JubilantLankyLad 1,957 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 finally went to Advance to get my "service engine soon" light checked on (hey, it didn't say HOW soon. soon could be within a couple years, which I'm well within). I forget the actual code (thought it was 42, but googled that and that isn't right I don't think) but she said it was for an oxygen sensor. that something I could replace on my own fairly easily you think? 2002 chevy silverado 4x4 5.3Lif not, how much would it cost to take it to a shop to have them do, and possibly do a more complete scan to make sure that's what it needs? i.e. that it's not just faulty wiring or something.o2 sensors are easy to replace if you have a lift and if they are accessible and if they aren't rusted into place. Link to post Share on other sites
brvheart 1,753 Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 finally went to Advance to get my "service engine soon" light checked on (hey, it didn't say HOW soon. soon could be within a couple years, which I'm well within). I forget the actual code (thought it was 42, but googled that and that isn't right I don't think) but she said it was for an oxygen sensor. that something I could replace on my own fairly easily you think? 2002 chevy silverado 4x4 5.3Lif not, how much would it cost to take it to a shop to have them do, and possibly do a more complete scan to make sure that's what it needs? i.e. that it's not just faulty wiring or something.On a pickup you'll be able to do it yourself. Trucks are very nice to work on. After you change the O2 sensor, take it back to advance and have them clear the codes... then if your engine light doesn't come back on, you know that your wiring is ok. Replace Labor Time Oxygen Sensor One Side 0.5 hours Both Sides 0.6 hours Link to post Share on other sites
Sal Paradise 57 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 ok, I'll probably do it then. now here's another question though: the lady at the advance place used a little tool that told her something like "below proper threshold for something blah blah", not specifically that it was the O2 sensor, but she said that's probably what it was. is there some other test that can be done, by an auto parts place or mechanic or whatever, that can tell me exactly if it's the sensor, and if so, which one? the reason I ask is that through googling, it seems that there is some more specific diagnostic tool that can be used to tell the specific part that's causing the sensor to go off, but nothing ever says what kind of tool or who would have one. plus I really don't want to go replace one oxygen sensor, then the other one (it seems there's two of them too, who knew?), then the wiring, the something else... I don't have much money for this.edit: now that picture has confused me. probably make more sense when I get the part and get under there I'm sure. Link to post Share on other sites
fryer98 30 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 the lady at the advance placeI bet she was a looker, eh? Link to post Share on other sites
Sal Paradise 57 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 I bet she was a looker, eh?you know she really wasn't that terrible. it was weird and definitely unexpected, if not extremely emasculating. Link to post Share on other sites
fryer98 30 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 you know she really wasn't that terrible. it was weird and definitely unexpected, if not extremely emasculating.Sooooooooo, it wasn't as hot as when Jennifer Esposito used her code reader on Tommy Gavin's Escalade in Rescue me? Link to post Share on other sites
Sal Paradise 57 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 well damn, I don't remember that one, but I'm gonna go with "no." Link to post Share on other sites
fryer98 30 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 well damn, I don't remember that one, but I'm gonna go with "no."Look how disappointed Jennifer is that you forgot!I looked for a screen shot of the scene, but I couldn't find one. I figured I just HAD to put a picture of her up since I was there already. Link to post Share on other sites
nutzbuster 7 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 Interesting, it makes sense I guess. So would filling my car when I get to around a half tank ultimately get me greater mileage in the long haul?Always keep you tank full.Ensures a spectacular fireball. Link to post Share on other sites
brvheart 1,753 Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 ok, I'll probably do it then. now here's another question though: the lady at the advance place used a little tool that told her something like "below proper threshold for something blah blah", not specifically that it was the O2 sensor, but she said that's probably what it was. is there some other test that can be done, by an auto parts place or mechanic or whatever, that can tell me exactly if it's the sensor, and if so, which one? the reason I ask is that through googling, it seems that there is some more specific diagnostic tool that can be used to tell the specific part that's causing the sensor to go off, but nothing ever says what kind of tool or who would have one. plus I really don't want to go replace one oxygen sensor, then the other one (it seems there's two of them too, who knew?), then the wiring, the something else... I don't have much money for this.edit: now that picture has confused me. probably make more sense when I get the part and get under there I'm sure.I would definitely replace both of them as long as you're under there. Link to post Share on other sites
qyayqi 11 Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 any thoughts on which of these you would purchase:2004 kia rio sport - $5800 - 85,000 kilometers2004 dodge neon (knowing that the rad should be replaced if it is factory) - $5500 - 80,000 kilometers2005 kia spectra - $7750 - 112,000 milesthe spectra has the highest klicks on it, but it also gets the highest rating on edmunds.com and has the fewest issues listed on carcomplaints.com.(no, this is not advertising for those sites.) Link to post Share on other sites
brvheart 1,753 Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 any thoughts on which of these you would purchase:2004 kia rio sport - $5800 - 85,000 kilometers2004 dodge neon (knowing that the rad should be replaced if it is factory) - $5500 - 80,000 kilometers2005 kia spectra - $7750 - 112,000 milesthe spectra has the highest klicks on it, but it also gets the highest rating on edmunds.com and has the fewest issues listed on carcomplaints.com.(no, this is not advertising for those sites.)I hate spending money on cars, so my vote is going to be the cheapest one with the best rating. Which one has the lowest operating cost? MPG? (My initial vote would be for the Rio, unless you can replace the radiator on the neon for less than $150-$200. Then I would go for the Neon.)Also, thanks for bumping this thread, because I forgot to respond to a PM about a car issue. Link to post Share on other sites
Jeepster80125 0 Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 I hate spending money on cars, so my vote is going to be the cheapest one with the best rating. Which one has the lowest operating cost? MPG? (My initial vote would be for the Rio, unless you can replace the radiator on the neon for less than $150-$200. Then I would go for the Neon.)Also, thanks for bumping this thread, because I forgot to respond to a PM about a car issue. o rly? Link to post Share on other sites
brvheart 1,753 Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 I have a 2003 Eddie Bauer Explorer, leather seats, with heaters in front.It's been cold and I've been running my seat heater more, and I can tell it started to decrease in heat instead of making my ass burn, and now it doesn't work at all.Do you have any idea what might be causing my seat heater to malfunction? Any idea of the cost to fix the problem? Are there fuses for this type of stuff?I'm sorry that I must sound like a retard.Thanks,Jeepster82 Seat Heater80 Seat Heater Control Module80 Seat Heater SwitchThere are no technical service bulletins for the seat heater, so the problem is one of these things. I would guess it's the control module, but it could be the switch. Your best bet is getting the dealer to diagnose and give you an estimate, and then buy the part online and have your mechanic install it. The reason you go to a dealer for the diagnosis, it because regular mechanics are really bad at it. Plus dealer mechanics know their cars inside and out because that's all they work on all day long. Regular mechanics see all different types of cars, so that aren't great at each specific model. Link to post Share on other sites
brvheart 1,753 Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 o rly?Yeah, it was you, sorry about the delay. Link to post Share on other sites
akoff 0 Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 How about address for you locations...that is as close to do it yourself as i get. Link to post Share on other sites
Jeepster80125 0 Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 82 Seat Heater80 Seat Heater Control Module80 Seat Heater SwitchThere are no technical service bulletins for the seat heater, so the problem is one of these things. I would guess it's the control module, but it could be the switch. Your best bet is getting the dealer to diagnose and give you an estimate, and then buy the part online and have your mechanic install it. The reason you go to a dealer for the diagnosis, it because regular mechanics are really bad at it. Plus dealer mechanics know their cars inside and out because that's all they work on all day long. Regular mechanics see all different types of cars, so that aren't great at each specific model.I bought the car from a Lexus dealership, but it was far away and they were idiots.Can I take it to any Ford dealership?P.S. I appreciate the response, delayed or not. Link to post Share on other sites
brvheart's I Phone 0 Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Yes, any Ford dealer would be fine. Link to post Share on other sites
Jeepster80125 0 Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Yes, any Ford dealer would be fine.thankyouverymuch.have fun at the movies! Link to post Share on other sites
grocery_mony 8 Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 I have a 93 Nissan p/u. Yesterday when I went to go somewhere I noticed the interior light was on and had been on for 24 hour+. Now it was sluggish turning over but it did and then ran fine. Then about 20 minutes later all of a sudden my radio cut out, headlights and dash lights all went very dim and the truck became very sluggish going up a hill. I got to my destination and let it run for half an hour. It was sluggish turning over when I went to leave and I noticed my windsheild wipers were very slow. Today it was sluggish like the battery is almost dead again but it did start up and idle normally, I turned it off for a couple minutes and again it had a sluggish start. I am reading 10vdc when not running and 9vdc when truck is running. I am hoping its just the battery(its 4 years old) but does that sound like the alternator. I am at the point where if I have to sink some bucks into a repair where I might retire it but dont really want to buy anything right now if I dont have toTTY Link to post Share on other sites
BaseJester 1 Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 I actually think I know this one. If I'm not mistaken it's because as the tank gets more empty there is more room for the gasoline to vapourize which takes away from your fuel.I could also be dead wrong, something a friend told me a long time ago.That seems pretty improbable to me. It takes a long, long time for gasoline exposed to the open air to evaporate.I think we just fill past the full line Link to post Share on other sites
AmScray 355 Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 I have a 93 Nissan p/u. Yesterday when I went to go somewhere I noticed the interior light was on and had been on for 24 hour+. Now it was sluggish turning over but it did and then ran fine. Then about 20 minutes later all of a sudden my radio cut out, headlights and dash lights all went very dim and the truck became very sluggish going up a hill. I got to my destination and let it run for half an hour. It was sluggish turning over when I went to leave and I noticed my windsheild wipers were very slow. Today it was sluggish like the battery is almost dead again but it did start up and idle normally, I turned it off for a couple minutes and again it had a sluggish start. I am reading 10vdc when not running and 9vdc when truck is running. I am hoping its just the battery(its 4 years old) but does that sound like the alternator. I am at the point where if I have to sink some bucks into a repair where I might retire it but dont really want to buy anything right now if I dont have toTTYDefinitely change the battery first. A 4 year old battery that took near a full drain and has to restart in winter is pushing it hard.If not, alternators are no big deal. Link to post Share on other sites
brvheart 1,753 Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 I have a 93 Nissan p/u. Yesterday when I went to go somewhere I noticed the interior light was on and had been on for 24 hour+. Now it was sluggish turning over but it did and then ran fine. Then about 20 minutes later all of a sudden my radio cut out, headlights and dash lights all went very dim and the truck became very sluggish going up a hill. I got to my destination and let it run for half an hour. It was sluggish turning over when I went to leave and I noticed my windsheild wipers were very slow. Today it was sluggish like the battery is almost dead again but it did start up and idle normally, I turned it off for a couple minutes and again it had a sluggish start. I am reading 10vdc when not running and 9vdc when truck is running. I am hoping its just the battery(its 4 years old) but does that sound like the alternator. I am at the point where if I have to sink some bucks into a repair where I might retire it but dont really want to buy anything right now if I dont have toTTYSure, you could change the battery, but starting the car takes by far the most energy and it did it twice in a row. To me, that points at something else. If the alternator was out, then the battery would not have had enough juice to start, drive, and then start again. Link to post Share on other sites
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