FromTheRail

I agree, A-J is a difficult hand to play against a ragged flop where there is action. I also agree, with the first response that, "it depends," however, that is a rather obvious quote when it comes to most poker situations. First, as is the case with most poker related problems, the more information you could provide with your specific problem the easier the solution would be. The most critical of these question would be what type of hold'em are we talking about, limit, no-limit or pot-limit? The answer to your problem would be heavily dependent on the limits we are addressing. If you are

I am also a big fan of chinese poker. I especially like it because their isn't much in the way of written strategies, so I like figuring it out for myself.

All my chips would be in the middle after the flop.

I agree with Smash, but would like to add some more. I think the style of the table you are currently playing also plays a big role in how one would play wired pairs.If the table seems to be pretty passive, you can limp or call riases more freely with pairs and not fear the big reraise. If the table is aggressive with bet, raise and re-raise pretty common, it might be better to limit pairs to favorable positions.I must admit I tend to mix up my play of wired 10s. Most times I'll reraise to get heads-up, but a small percentage of the time I'll limp/call with position inviting more money in so

Thats why they call it gambling and not banking. Start to accept some losses and don't let them hold you back from tapping into the larger money out there to be won. Even the most seasoned professional has to deal with a loss in the log book now and then.

I really don't know why, but I hate it when people use the phase "cold call" incorrect. The actual definition is "when a player who has no money other than the ante invested in the pot calls a raise and a re-raise." ex. The button cold called their raises. -correctex. I bet from the cutoff, the button reraised and the small blind cold called. -incorrect

I think you raise depends on the limit you were playing and the texture of your game. If your game was loose, I would not have raised. IMO, the best way to play a high only hand, especially out of position is cheaply. If the board comes high to counterfit any low draws you can start to jam the pot then. I could see your raise as being beneficial if it was an attempt to mix up your play and show you don't only raise with nut low prospects.

I find watching poker to be a very good learning exercise. I like to predict not only the hands players hold, but I like to take it one step further and try to predict their next course of action.

I'd probably be throwing any hand away except a big pair in this position and just wait for the small stack to go out. After ensuring a money spot I'd be looking for the first halfway decent hand and I'd be pushing all in. Normally, I advocate aggression and playing to win, however, in this spot the small stack is so low I'd just wait.

Economics is awful.....I hated that class. Had to take it in Grad. School. for MBA.I would suggest biology. I got my undergrad in Biology. The most difficult class you'll have to take is Organic Chemistry, but I actually enjoyed that class. The only down side is all the extra lab time you have to put in. good luck

Michael Carpelleti wrote a great omaha hi/low book.

Ok, so you are switching from limit to no-limit, I will assume you are fairly prolific in your limit play. The big difference between limit and no-limit is the fact that you can get broke on one hand as opposed to the fact you can make a mistake in limit and live to fight another battle. If you are going to play flush draws, make sure they are to the nuts and do not stake large amounts of your chips to chase it down. I wouldn't risk more than 7 and at most 10% of your stack on a draw.....its just bad in no limit! The other idea when playing a flush draw, is you would like it against someon

There are two ways to play this, strong or weak. The first, and more profitable way to play this situation is strong, so you bet out in the hopes of narrowing th field, if someone reraises you have a decision to make. The raiser could also be trying to protect 8 high or an over pair and trying to protect the hand, or you could be facing trips at which point you would be completely dominated. Your feel for the game will pay huge dividens at this point. If you are not reraised and everyone calls or if only one or two people call I would be betting the turn card no matter what came. The be

Ok, here it is. By pointing out that you read this book in "1 night" I'm going to assume your trying to show us how committed you are to being a "poker player." Which is good, and I respect your wanting to learn. However, I feel you might have picked a text that is pretty generic to start. First, you need to hit the ground walking before you can run in poker. So, lets start with some basics so you can grasp some general ideas and concepts. 1). Small Stakes hold'em by Sklansky - I haven't read it but I hear its the new intro text to start playing hold'em2). Theory of Poker by Sklansky -

More simplistic:you have a four cards in your hand and five on the board. To make your hand either hi or low, you have to use exactly 2 cards from your hand and 3 cards from the board....their is no exception. However, you can use two different combinations of those four cards for each half hi and low. Michael Carpelleti wrote a good book on Omaha Hi/Lo 8 or better and the section in SS2 by Bobby Baldwin is very good. I would suggest both.

No, thats still not it.First, personally, I don't think you should worry about preflop odds. That is just more math to bog everything down. However, if you want to know, then yes, you are approximately 7.5-1 to turn a set on the flop. However, you are figuring your odds to hit on the turn and river incorrect.After the flop you have 47 cards left unseen so 47/2 and after the turn you have 46 cards unseen so you are at 46/2.

Why would you bother with odds preflop? What matters is if you know how to make odds relavent after you have seen the flop, and want to know if you should continue or wait for a more favorable opportunity.

One of the few times I'm going to disagree with Wroto. Why bother betting on the end into this pot. The opponent played this hand like a draw the whole way, if you bet on the end and they missed their draw they aren't going to call the bet, but they will reraise if they make their draw. Why waste the bet, play straight forward and only waste one bet on the river instead of two. Your math and reasons for value betting on the end are correct, only and only if the opponent is willing to put in one more big bet with the second best hand. If you bet and get reraised only by the best hand and y

Yeah, I'll be at the Borgata all weekend. I'm not sure if I'll be leaving tonight or tomorrow, but I'll be there until Sunday night once I finally get there.

Yeah, stick to the high end of the deck and play your hands very aggessively, especially if your opponents turn out to be the kind of players who love to chase down draws. You can experiment with your preflop raise size, if they play lots of bad hands preflop and then can't get away from them, you can increase the amounts of your preflop raises with your monster hands and they won't catch on. Just watch for who plays good cards, and who plays any cards.

This might sound a little crazy, but its true. Watch their hands...literally their hands like left and right, not their cards. Some players love to tell you what their thinking with their hands, they grab for chips, they push their cards toward the middle, I've even seen people counting down the cards to a flush or straight with their fingers!! Also, remember the classic Caro tells concerning the hands....if they hold their cards a long time and look at them, they aren't good. If they pick up their hand and slap it back down like its hot....its a good hand. Try this next time, it will be

Smash is right.....FOLD

Your first leak is you mind set in relation to "bad players" and the "bad plays" they make. Remember, it is these "bad players" who keep the money comming into the poker community. When I have someone push all their chips into the middle drawing practically dead, and then they catch one of their two remaining cards left in the deck to beat me, I don't get upset or angry, I smile because I know in the long run I'm going to make the money back I just lost and much more. This is the economy of poker, and if you want to play poker it is something you are going to have to learn to embrace, inst

As I have said before, your question is the reason no-limit is an art and not a science, like limit games. Each situation needs to be addressed as its own exclusive problem. Image, previous plays, the opponent, the cards, the position all these things need to be taken into account when betting in no-limit. What is your objective with the bet, do you want a call or a fold. Do you want to keep multiple players in the hand or eliminate people. All these questions should be addressed for the particular situation, then you can make your bet. For these reasons, it is near impossible to give st

As with most poker related questions, the answer is........it depends. First, the ability to play suited connectors preflop out of position, is completely dependent on your ability to play post flop. If post-flop play is a weakness in your game, you definately wouldn't want to play suited connectors out of postion. Second, the play of suited connectors is dependent on the make-up of your table. If the table is tight, it is worth a raise with suited connectors to try and steal the blinds from any position. Also, if you try for a steal with suited connectors, happen to flop a monster, who c