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$1/2 Nl Starting Amount


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I play 3/6 and 5/10 Limit now and want to go over to NL in live games. I have been playing the .5/1 game online and trying out the 1/2 NL online and doing fairly good. The MAX you can sit down with at a casino is $300, atleast most of the places ive seen. I dont want to sit down with the max for fear of getting nervous and mkaing a bad play and losing it all on one hand (dont try to say you werent nervous the first time u sat down at a live NL cash game for the same reason). What do u recommend is enough to sit down with for the first time you play live NL, $175?

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I play 3/6 and 5/10 Limit now and want to go over to NL in live games. I have been playing the .5/1 game online and trying out the 1/2 NL online and doing fairly good. The MAX you can sit down with at a casino is $300, atleast most of the places ive seen. I dont want to sit down with the max for fear of getting nervous and mkaing a bad play and losing it all on one hand (dont try to say you werent nervous the first time u sat down at a live NL cash game for the same reason). What do u recommend is enough to sit down with for the first time you play live NL, $175?
Most B&M Casinos have $100 Max $1/$2 NL Tables - in Vegas often $200. I'd say try that as a starting point. Sitting down with less than a Max Buy-in is handicapping yourself & not recommended.Relax and enjoy the game. Live NL Play is awesome - wait for your moment. Let us know how you do.
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Most B&M Casinos have $100 Max $1/$2 NL Tables - in Vegas often $200. I'd say try that as a starting point. Sitting down with less than a Max Buy-in is handicapping yourself & not recommended.Relax and enjoy the game. Live NL Play is awesome - wait for your moment. Let us know how you do.
Every B&M casino that I've played in (Borgata, Harrah's, Showboat, Taj, Rio, Foxwoods) has a max buy in of $200 or $300 for $1/$2 NLHE.There's no problem buying in for less than the max. I'd recommend at least $100. As your confidence grows, you may want to buy in for more in case you have the nuts and you feel that someone may call an all in bet or raise. You would want to maximize your winnings.
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If you can't buy in for the maximum (or at least 100BB), then you shouldn't be playing in the game in the first place. I firmly believe that, unless you're one of those stupid Rolf Slotboom disciples or whatever.Wang

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If you can't buy in for the maximum (or at least 100BB), then you shouldn't be playing in the game in the first place. I firmly believe that, unless you're one of those stupid Rolf Slotboom disciples or whatever.Wang
for a given BR and ROR, you would likely make more $$$ buying in short at higher limits, than moving down limits. That's the real comparison, not Full vs Short Buy in at same limit. {all credit goes to Sluggo for that}
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for a given BR and ROR, you would likely make more $$$ buying in short at higher limits, than moving down limits. That's the real comparison, not Full vs Short Buy in at same limit. {all credit goes to Sluggo for that}
Really? So if I had a 10K roll, I'd be better off buying in for 500 at a 5/10 game than 500 in a 2/5 game? Someone explain...
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Really? So if I had a 10K roll, I'd be better off buying in for 500 at a 5/10 game than 500 in a 2/5 game? Someone explain...
I've been up all night and need to be up in 4 hours.but you have the right idea.Your StndDev is lower when you buy in for like 20 blinds, allowing you to have a smaller roll for a given limit and play higher than if you bought in full. So the theory goes.
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Every B&M casino that I've played in (Borgata, Harrah's, Showboat, Taj, Rio, Foxwoods) has a max buy in of $200 or $300 for $1/$2 NLHE.There's no problem buying in for less than the max. I'd recommend at least $100. As your confidence grows, you may want to buy in for more in case you have the nuts and you feel that someone may call an all in bet or raise. You would want to maximize your winnings.
So $200 is recommended amt?
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I've been up all night and need to be up in 4 hours.but you have the right idea.Your StndDev is lower when you buy in for like 20 blinds, allowing you to have a smaller roll for a given limit and play higher than if you bought in full. So the theory goes.
I still don't understand this. If you're a better player, won't you be better served:a) playing with more money relative to your opponents, so as to maximize the value from any given hand, especially those hands played primarily post-flopB) playing a level down, usually against worse players?Wang
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Wang,I hope it's clear that I'm only speaking in theory, one that I *know* primarily from Sluggo's posts. Personally, I have never developed a decent NL game. So with that in mind...While the potential WR is higher playing full and against worst players, the reality with most players is that the ratio of WR to Variance allows for a higher $$$ earned per hour, especially when one takes into consideration the fact you can play more tables short-stacked, due to its formulaic strategy. You play with $200 in a $1000NL game vs $200 in a $200 NL game. Your lowered Variance lets you play at higher stakes thus compensating for a lower BB/100 rate.

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it's only lower variance because you're playing super tight. IMO you're better off playing your standard game buying in for 500 at 2/5 then playing like a nit and hoping to get big hands when buying in for 500 at 5/10 or 10/20NL. it's more profitable buying in for the max amount at a game *if you're a winning playeryou really want to sit w/ 20BB and hope to get a hand in 2 hourshere's a post by irockhoes from his site--------------------------------------------------------------------------------ok. Reason i hate the short buy is that it is a contradiction in itself. If you think you can beat the game, why wouldnt you want to maximize your profit off your winning hands? If you flop a set and the other guy has top pair, you are going to win 200 dollars instead of 1000. To me the short buy is an admission that you are not confident enough in your game to play real poker. If you don't think you can beat the game, why are you buying in in the first place? Yes, like the above poster said, you will take alot of variance out of your game, but you are also taking out almost all the reward. No limit poker is about using your stack to the best of your ability. If I couldn't move people off hands when I am second best, I don't think i would be a winning player. If you are scared of the variance angle, multi table 9 or 10 max tables with a full buy in. This will net you less variance but allow you to really bank on your winning hands. I hate the short buy in as a strategy, and love it when people sit short. My bankroll is made up of 100's of short stacks.here's the thread http://irockpoker.com/forum/showthread.php...ht=short+buy+in

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Akishore beat this topic to death, search it if you must. I believe the final theory was essentially was what Actuary said. Simpler game plan, smaller win rate, less variance. A good player can benefit more from a full stack and room to manuver(obviously), but buying short is a good starting point.(AKA, i dont want to lose too much money so let's curl up into a ball and play weenie-like...) :club:

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Please get this straight, since it apparently was missed after I tried to explain.Some of the stuff and the quotes are missing the point and making incorrect asumptions.Why are you compairing buying in for 500 vs 100 in a $2/5 NL game ?In Short Stack, you buy in at higher games$500 in a $2500 NL game, instead of $500 in a $500NL gameShort Stack is not a passive game, and you force opponents to make mistakes or fold a lot because they have no odds to drawI don't pretend to play NL well, please don't pretend to understand what true Short Stack strategy is, if you do notBotton line: For a given Bankroll and RoR, most players can make more money per hour playing SS than full buyin. That is an opinion. I don't share it nor disagree, I don't know.

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You can buy short, but then you have to apply a short-stack strategy. If that's something you want to do, practice buying in short on-line for low stakes. Multi-table so you won't die of boredom.On-line 0.5/1 players are much tougher than casino 1/2 players, so don't feel intimidated.

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Botton line: For a given Bankroll and RoR, most players can make more money per hour playing SS than full buyin. That is an opinion. I don't share it nor disagree, I don't know.
Haha, that's easily the funniest thing you've ever said. I imagined you saying that in an exaggerated George W. Bush accent.
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Please get this straight, since it apparently was missed after I tried to explain.Some of the stuff and the quotes are missing the point and making incorrect asumptions.Why are you compairing buying in for 500 vs 100 in a $2/5 NL game ?In Short Stack, you buy in at higher games$500 in a $2500 NL game, instead of $500 in a $500NL gameShort Stack is not a passive game, and you force opponents to make mistakes or fold a lot because they have no odds to drawI don't pretend to play NL well, please don't pretend to understand what true Short Stack strategy is, if you do notBotton line: For a given Bankroll and RoR, most players can make more money per hour playing SS than full buyin. That is an opinion. I don't share it nor disagree, I don't know.
Short stacking and (inevitably) rat-holing works online for some people. I always get blinded down before I catch enough heat to re-stack. Or I get beat. Maybe Sluggo should post a primer on how to play short stacked. I believe many casinos have a minimum buy in, making it a moot point.
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