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700 bbs in nl


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is playing with 700 big bets in no limit really suicide? needless to say, i consider myself a winning player at the stakes i play, but everyone does, and i know that people recommend like 1500 big bets but how safe is 700?

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I'll say that it is suicide, bc you're only working with 3.5 buyins. It's very easy to lose 3 sessions in a row. I would really think that it's better to grind it out. Poker will always be there, why risk going broke?

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Rather off topic, but this is something I've been curious about. How does one determine BR requirements for NLHE? It doesn't make sense to talk about BR in terms of bb's because if you buy in for 2500 and the whole table covers you, 2500 bbs would obviously not be sufficient.At the same time, buy-ins don't work since it is clearly more difficult to lose a 200bb buy-in than a 10bb buy-in.How do you effectively combine the two? How different are the BR requirements for someone who plays a 25bb shortstack strategy vs. someone who plays 250bb deepstack poker?

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Rather off topic, but this is something I've been curious about. How does one determine BR requirements for NLHE? It doesn't make sense to talk about BR in terms of bb's because if you buy in for 2500 and the whole table covers you, 2500 bbs would obviously not be sufficient.At the same time, buy-ins don't work since it is clearly more difficult to lose a 200bb buy-in than a 10bb buy-in.How do you effectively combine the two? How different are the BR requirements for someone who plays a 25bb shortstack strategy vs. someone who plays 250bb deepstack poker?
NLHE bankroll requirements are rooted in the ability to play a level comfortably while accounting for inherent variance.The typical max buy-in for NLHE is 100x BB. The recommendations for max buy-ins range quite a bit. I'll personally play with as few as 8 typical buy-ins given specific conditions (I actually started .05/.10 with $20 and luckily never went broke), but I usually see people suggest anywhere between 10-30 buy-ins.That said, you can apply the same range to short-stack buy-ins, but you have to realize that short-stack play has higher variance, so you should go for the upper range. If you're buying into .50/1 NLHE tables with $25, you probably need at least $500.There's actually a specific formula that you can apply to calculate your required bankroll (given a certain 'risk of ruin'), but it requires you to know a lot of stats about your play. I actually went through this process a couple months ago in a thread in this section. I found out that if I want a "liberal" risk of ruin (5%) at my current level of play, I need $1,100. If I take a more "conservative" approach (1%), I need $1,700. I mostly play 1/2 NLHE, so that amounts to 6-9 buy-ins...which I think is somewhat reasonable. Granted, I'm more comfortable mentally when I have a lot more than that, but if I suddenly had to cash out a lot of money, I could technically drop my roll to that threshold without having to drop limits.
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Not suicide, but very risky. You can go on a bad run and lose it all in a second.

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Petoria, i don't get this..."I'll say that it is suicide, bc you're only working with 3.5 buyins. It's very easy to lose 3 sessions in a row. I would really think that it's better to grind it out. Poker will always be there, why risk going broke?"He said 700 big bets, and I'm assuming he means big blinds.That's 7 buy-ins.

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