breathweapon

No, I was talking about cash games, I'd do the exact opposite in tournaments, because the "bad player" factor increases and the chips are more important in relation to the stack sizes and blind levels.

Limping to set is ok if the opponents are incompetent, and granted most opponents are, but I've taken down more blinds, more small pots and more stacks via. raising small pocket pairs than not. Raising them is certainly more skill intensive, but it's considerably more rewarding. There are enough respectable players that standard raise all PPs in all positions, so I don't think it's really that far out of line.Edit: Yeah, if the opponent's are calling station than raising small PPs isn't worth the effort, I'm at 5/10 NL so it's a different ball game than multi tabling micro stakes.

So true, more people have issues with their arrogance, patience and tilt than they do with their strategy and math.

Raising all PPs in all positions is important for balancing ranges, stealing blinds and continuation betting. Increasing the pot size and isolating the opponent is critical to stacking, while limping to set is a tell to fold. I don't think conventional wisdom regarding PPs is correct, limping is a tell, folding is tight and raising is going to cause minimal losses at its absolute worst. Even if raising all PPs and calling to set in 3bet pots is slightly -EV, it makes you a significantly more dangerous player.Edit: The reason that limping to set is a tell is because of the reaction time between

Micro stakes No Limit, but I'd be interested in hearing Limit opinions as well. I assume the pot odds and betting cap make them a lot easier to play in that game?

So, I'm compiling ranges based on starting hand charts, expected value charts and Poker Tracker statistics for a friend, but I thought I'd gather a consensus on ranges for marginal hands to weight the numbers. Is there an accepted range for AJ, AT, KJ, KT, QJ, QT suited and unsuited in 10 handed cash games that should be taught to n00bs?1) I open AJ, AT and KJ, KT, QJ, QT suited in middle position.2) I open KJ, KT, QJ, QT off suit in the cut off. 3) I don't call EP/MP raises with these hands unless they're A) suited and B) in position or I'm in the BB.4) I 3bet LP raises with these hands when

IMO, he called to set, missed the flop and decided this is a position to bluff the trips while still being ahead of overs if you call. In that case, AIing with 12 outs is reasonable, but there's no shame in folding this either. Personally, I'd fold and look for a better spot to get my stack in later, you want to be the one shoving with the flush in this position, not the one calling shoves.

Is there resource material out there for heads up PLO and PLO8?

Translation: You're paying my rent

For interested parties, 7Stud generates a Rai$e point per anti, which is significantly more cost efficient than other games on a small bank roll. 100 hands at 10$ in antis for 100 Rai$e points has cleared the first three levels in less than a week. The game is also ridiculously soft, for what it's worth.

Check raising is the right line, if you donk then you don't induce a continuation bet from the button if he misses, and he is probably going to over play his PP either way. I'm not thrilled about the pre-flop call, I'd do it in the BB for certain, but doing it in the SB is kind of sketchy. I'd probably 3Bet that hand for a re-steal instead of a call there, depending on how loose of a positional raiser the button is.

Yeah, UB's program is a direct rip off of AP's program plus some other incentives ala auction house. I think I'm going to make the move just to clear the sign up bonus. Any suggestions on rake back providers for AP?

IRL, a lot of an opponent's tells come from their speech patterns and voice intonations, so I'd take the time to look for/pick up on them before I put them on, and I would always take them off before I play a hand. Online, I'd just open up another table or change games if I were bored. I don't know if it applies to poker, but when I was playing chess semi-professionally, the worst players were always the players wearing head phones, while the best players either never wore them or only wore them against a worse player. It's always nice to have the option, but it's not something you should rely

Don't 3bet AK, AQ or KQ out of the BB, there's no reason to show force when you should be concealing strength by making an "odds" call. You want to get into a hand domination scenario and not a re-steal with a legitimate holding unless the opponent is a loose button caller. You 3bet AK, AQ or KQ from the SB for isolation, there's really no need for that when you're already heads up. Just calling also gives you more options, like representing the low cards, straight or draw in this instance, so you could take the pot with a simple donk bet or check/raise.As for the flop, either pot bet, open sh

Yup, assuming he's on the high and I'm on the low, or we're both on the low, then I have to either fold or drive him out of the pot. Bobby Baldwin talks about it a lot in SS2, it's definitely put a lot of money in my bank roll over time.

This is standard, I would have re-potted with just the low draw here.

You're right, the two programs are identical with few exceptions, would you hold one, or both, of them above FullTilt?

What does AP have going for it other than cash for points? I didn't even know they had a loyalty program.Right now I'm working on Rai$e, their 9% per annum interest rate on your bank roll looks worth it, but I'm not sure how practical it's going to be.

Between Pokerstar's Elite Super Nova, Full Tilt's Ironman and Ultimate Bet's Icon is there any consensus on which site offers the best loyalty program? Does Pokerstar's offer anything that makes up for the insignificant sign up bonus and non-existent rake back?

15 outs to a set = AI

No, I moved up from .10/25 each time I double up i.e .25/.50 at 1k, .50/1.00 at 2k, 1/2 at 4k and then 2/5 at 10k in 2 years. Besides, no alcohol, no sex, nothing to see and nothing to buy = a lot of spare time They call it hurry up and wait for a reason.

If you know he can lay down top pair, I'd seriously consider re-raising here. The problem with calling is that it doesn't leave you with any good options if you miss the turn, so you need to either shit or get off the pot, IMO.

Re-pot the flop or dump it, the board is too drawish as it stands and he's on at least KJ+ or straight + flush, so fire back at him and either get him to fold or reveal his hand for less $ in the long run.

All you can do is either put him on the flush and fold or put him on the ace and call, I'd likely put him on the flush and fold with out a pre-flop raise to indicate the ace. The only justification for putting him on an ace at this point is that the turn over bet could have been intended to either force a fold from another ace or prevent a spade from hitting on the river, but I honestly wouldn't give any way one at those limits that much credit. Everything else is fine, I would have played it exactly the same way, tho' I usually raise junk from the BB against limpers.

Selling the nuts isn't a River bet, it's a turn maneuver where the best hand is checked, a free card is given and then the River is bet in order to make it appear to be a steal or to induce a bet. The most common variations are checking a full house, checking an ace high flush or checking a nut straight (with no flush draws on board) where the hand is a relative lock.Pot bets and re-pots are the standard flop and turn betting increments in high, in H/L it's situational based on the push/pull nature of the game. Don't concentrate on extracting value so much as pricing the action, if people know