Big Draws

[NoBBiR 0]

.25/.25 NLHE FREffective Stacks $25.Villain is a competent TAG.Hero has 6 7 on the Button.Villain is the CO.Folds to Villain who raises to $1.25.Hero calls.Folds behind.Pot: $3Flop: 9 8 K :club:Villain bets $3.Three thing:1) How often do you call and then reevaluate these situations? Do you raise/call, 50/50? Do you raise/call, 70/30? Do you vary depending on opponent?2) Would you be more prone to call and reevaluate if you had 5 7 ?3) Are you more prone to call and reevaluate given that you don't have the nut OESD with your FD?

[mtdesmoines 3]

Three thing:1) How often do you call and then reevaluate these situations? Do you raise/call, 50/50? Do you raise/call, 70/30? Do you vary depending on opponent?2) Would you be more prone to call and reevaluate if you had 5 7 ?3) Are you more prone to call and reevaluate given that you do not really have a OESFD but rather an OESD + FD?

We have the bottom side of the straight draw. It's marginally important. I vary depending on table action. 2. I only ever call with the gutterball 3. Yes, but again, marginally, and depending on table and villain

[pt special 0]

.25/.25 NLHE FREffective Stacks $25.Villain is a competent TAG.Hero has 6 7 on the Button.Villain is the CO.Folds to Villain who raises to $1.25.Hero calls.Folds behind.Pot: $3Flop: 9 8 K :club:Villain bets $3.Three thing:1) How often do you call and then reevaluate these situations? Do you raise/call, 50/50? Do you raise/call, 70/30? Do you vary depending on opponent?2) Would you be more prone to call and reevaluate if you had 5 7 ?3) Are you more prone to call and reevaluate given that you do not really have a OESFD but rather an OESD + FD?

1. i like to make really big raises here...on the flop your equity is amazing, generally i slow down on the turn2. maybe, depending on his image, the only thing you really have to be worried about is a bigger draw, with a gutter and a flush draw your equity is still pretty good3. you still have the same amount of outs either way

[NoBBiR 0]

1. i like to make really big raises here...on the flop your equity is amazing, generally i slow down on the turn2. maybe, depending on his image, the only thing you really have to be worried about is a bigger draw, with a gutter and a flush draw your equity is still pretty good3. you still have the same amount of outs either way

Ok, I'm editing my post given that I was multitasking while typing. 3 was supposed be whether you call/reevaluate less/more often given that you have the low end end of the straight, and not then big one. I'm just retarded.

[Zach6668 513]

OESD + FD for 100 BBs, I get it in if I can. Either actual, or effective.

[ah2388 0]

definitely a raise

[psujohn 0]

I'm almost always raising with a combo draw be it oesfd, fd+gutdhot or even fd+pair.Really though we want villain to fold. We're essentially 50/50 or worse against anything that he'll get it all in with. I'm certainly not upset if I get it all in but the profit in this situation comes from folding out the QQ type hands that very well may fold here to a big raise.In the situation in the OP we're in a bit of a tough spot since a 3-bet on the flop will likely be all-in. If we raise to 8 or 9 which is what I'd do villain will very likely push with AA, KK maybe AK. I'd rather be the one pushing since against the right opponent we may have some fold equity left.

[Scott3705 0]

Three thing:1) How often do you call and then reevaluate these situations? Do you raise/call, 50/50? Do you raise/call, 70/30? Do you vary depending on opponent?2) Would you be more prone to call and reevaluate if you had 5 7 ?3) Are you more prone to call and reevaluate given that you don't have the nut OESD with your FD?

1) Varies highly on opponents and Shed vs. FR. First instinct will be to always raise here, for obvious reasons, equity drops at the turn, blah blah. However, in aggressive games that you're calling thin, I think you have to call with these big draws (as well as big made hands) in order to disugise you're bluff catching calls w/ 910 here. Consider that even if you brick the turn and villian pots the turn, you still have straight pot odds to call for the river without consideration of pot odds. So you don't have to worry about getting priced out.2) I'm more prone to raise with 5 7 just because I can get priced out of the pot on the turn (getting 3:1 as opposed to 2:1)

[Royal_Tour 0]

this is very situational.HU, and like zach said, at 100bb;s i will ship it in. if he folds. good. if not, good.?if this is multiway, then i'd have to play it differently depending on my position.if i'm firs to act, i might play this like a monster and try for a c/r, then a push on the turn.if i'm in middle position with a bet in front and players behind, i just call.if i'm last to act with a bet, and a call i raise, sometimes even pushthe only times i "reevaluate" is if i think someone is drawing to a bigger hand than part of my draw

[David_Nicoson 1]

In practice I'm raising nearly all the time with either hand. If I have to pick one to call with, it's the 6 7 . I'm much more likely to get paid after I hit with a straight draw than with the flush draw, so I prefer playing additional streets with the hand that has more straight outs.

[krup24 0]

In practice I'm raising nearly all the time with either hand. If I have to pick one to call with, it's the 6 7 . I'm much more likely to get paid after I hit with a straight draw than with the flush draw, so I prefer playing additional streets with the hand that has more straight outs.

most important thing with hands like this.deep stacked there can be some discussion but in this situation i think this is always a raise.

[Acid_Knight 2]

I think you need to play the hand fast like 100% of the time here.Putting in a big raise here lets you play sets/2pair hands that much faster on these boards and makes your opponent call with 1 pair becuase you might be pushing a draw.Lots of the value from the hand comes because you will improve so often, but it's often hard for your opponent to pay off bets when they see the draws get there.Like Zach said, for 100BBs, I'm looking to get it in every time.The ONLY time that I ever really slow down in a HU situation is when I'm very sure that my opponent has a set or similarly strong made hand that he'll never fold, regardless of when the draws get there. My equity goes down if he's got a set of Ks here, so I probably just call then bet and I get to get away cheaply if the turn pairs or something.