Four Twenty

[digitalmonkey 929]

I was thinking about two pieces of wood that have been nailed together and was wondering if the part of the nail that is between the two pieces of wood, but isn't embedded in any wood is a weak point? There has to be some part of the nail, no matter how small, that is not embedded, right? Wood it depend on wood type and/or nail type?

[govikes 0]

I was thinking about two pieces of wood that have been nailed together and was wondering if the part of the nail that is between the two pieces of wood, but isn't embedded in any wood is a weak point? There has to be some part of the nail, no matter how small, that is not embedded, right? Wood it depend on wood type and/or nail type?

If a car then a board super ninento ate da vinci code by the lake with a spaceship would it be red?

[SAM_Hard8 50]

yes

[ajs510 122]

*nervous "don't talk to the crazy person" whistle*

[chrozzo 19]

se7en seventyleven>"

[AmScray 355]

I was thinking about two pieces of wood that have been nailed together and was wondering if the part of the nail that is between the two pieces of wood, but isn't embedded in any wood is a weak point? There has to be some part of the nail, no matter how small, that is not embedded, right? Wood it depend on wood type and/or nail type?

Of course some part of the nail isn't embedded. What kind of tard are you?Even if the wood were to swell to encompass as much of the nail shank as possible, there would still be a seam- even if it were no more than the width that existed between individual, compressed particles of wood, within the union joint.If you were to run a Multimaster blade down that seam, upon arriving at the nail, you would eventually be cutting significantly more metal than you were disturbing wood.Further, 'weak point' has as much to do with the structural integrity of the materials as it does the methods used to join them. If you were to wrench that nailed wood as hard as you could, it may or may not bend the nail, depending on how thick the wood was, ergo, the simple presence of a nail driven through two pieces of wood does not presume that the nail itself is the weakest point.If it were a 6d driven through two 1X1's, the wood would probably fail before the nail let go under torsion.

[ShakeZuma 585]

Of course some part of the nail isn't embedded. What kind of retard are you?Even if the wood were to swell to encompass as much of the nail as possible, there would still be a seam- even if it were no more than the width that existed between individual, compressed particles of wood, that existed between the union joint.If you were to run a Multimaster blade down that seam, upon arriving at the nail, you would eventually be cutting significantly more metal than you were disturbing wood.Further, 'weak point' has as much to do with the structural integrity of the materials as it does the methods used to join them. If you were to wrench that nailed wood as hard as you could, it may or may not bend the nail, depending on how thick the wood was, ergo, the simple presence of a nail driven through two pieces of wood does not presume that the nail itself is the weakest point.

FUCKING DUH

[digitalmonkey 929]

Of course some part of the nail isn't embedded. What kind of tard are you?Even if the wood were to swell to encompass as much of the nail shank as possible, there would still be a seam- even if it were no more than the width that existed between individual, compressed particles of wood, within the union joint.If you were to run a Multimaster blade down that seam, upon arriving at the nail, you would eventually be cutting significantly more metal than you were disturbing wood.Further, 'weak point' has as much to do with the structural integrity of the materials as it does the methods used to join them. If you were to wrench that nailed wood as hard as you could, it may or may not bend the nail, depending on how thick the wood was, ergo, the simple presence of a nail driven through two pieces of wood does not presume that the nail itself is the weakest point.If it were a 6d driven through two 1X1's, the wood would probably fail before the nail let go under torsion.

You had me at "tard."

[rocksquid 50]

And balsa wood would add much less resistance.

[GeneralGeeWhiz 0]

i was expecting this....now i r sad panda.

[digitalmonkey 929]

Chocolate Rain!

[AmScray 355]

I've been ironing off bad Walnut veneer for the past few hours from this very old antique chest of drawers I found in the trash (thrown out because the veneer binding and veneer surfaces themselves were in a very shabby state). It's a two week project, but when it's done, I'll have a beautiful chest of drawers (the structural material is all hardwood) and can keep my clothes in that, rather than the 'four hampers' method I presently use to separate clean from dirty. I'll post pictures in a bit.The method I use to detach shitty veneer is as follows. I use a cabinet scraper to breach as much of the surface varnish as possible. Then, I cover the raw veneer in rags soaked in a mixture of hot water and white vinegar. Then, I go over the whole thing with an old clothes iron... This is usually enough to get the underlying hide glue to loosen up. I then attack the edges by carefully peeling up the veneer with a small chisel, then more iron and steam into the seam I'm working on peeling up, then more peeling, more steam, more peeling. I use small stacks of nickels taped together to wedge between the veneer and structural wood to impart a constant, upward pressure against the veneer as I go along... More iron and steam, more peeling, more nickels, more peeling. Sometimes, when peeling, if the veneer starts to detach from veneer sheet and stick to the wood, I use a small 1/4" chisel to peel it back.. The method promoted online is just "wet rags, iron and peel" but I've found this to be totally inadequate and not sufficiently comprehensive to effect the desired outcome. My own method is much better.

[chrozzo 19]

Chocolate Rain!

racist

[Jeepster80125 0]

I've been ironing off bad Walnut veneer for the past few hours from this very old antique chest of drawers I found in the trash (thrown out because the veneer binding and veneer surfaces themselves were in a very shabby state). It's a two week project, but when it's done, I'll have a beautiful chest of drawers (the structural material is all hardwood) and can keep my clothes in that, rather than the 'four hampers' method I presently use to separate clean from dirty. I'll post pictures in a bit.The method I use to detach shitty veneer is as follows. I use a cabinet scraper to breach as much of the surface varnish as possible. Then, I cover the raw veneer in rags soaked in a mixture of hot water and white vinegar. Then, I go over the whole thing with an old clothes iron... This is usually enough to get the underlying hide glue to loosen up. I then attack the edges by carefully peeling up the veneer with a small chisel, then more iron and steam into the seam I'm working on peeling up, then more peeling, more steam, more peeling. I use small stacks of nickels taped together to wedge between the veneer and structural wood to impart a constant, upward pressure against the veneer as I go along... More iron and steam, more peeling, more nickels, more peeling. Sometimes, when peeling, if the veneer starts to detach from veneer sheet and stick to the wood, I use a small 1/4" chisel to peel it back.. The method promoted online is just "wet rags, iron and peel" but I've found this to be totally inadequate and not sufficiently comprehensive to effect the desired outcome. My own method is much better.

I'm torn between the light weight of particle board versus the quality and longterm usage of hardwood. Hardwood is a huge pain to move up and down stairs.

[AmScray 355]

I won't have particleboard in my house.

[El Guapo 8]

I won't have particleboard in my house.

How...do you possibly avoid this? Are all your cabinets made from real wood? What about the boards inside your couch/chairs/bed?As an aside, unless I am buying older maybe even antique furniture I will never spend a lot of money on supposedly nice furniture again. When we bought our couch a few years back, I did a lot of shopping. Trips to the city, furniture galleries, etc. to find what we liked for the space we had. It was going to be our only splurge purchase for our, then, new house. We ended up settling on an Italian sofa made by Natuzzi. From the research we did, it was supposed to be high quality. We did by the warranty, which I am glad. So far, we have had to have the cushions re stuffed 3 times, the back and arm broke. I was there when the guy fixed the arm and back. The back was made out of 1/2 at thickest particle board and the arms, get this, 1/4 melamine. They can literally support almost no weight.We got what we thought was a good deal at the time, but I would never buy this crap again, unless it was dirt cheap. I would rather go to one of those giant Asian furniture stores that are always going out of business, pay 1/3 the price and know it's crap.

[AmScray 355]

Particleboard furniture. Other stuff I can't help, whatever. The modern design sofa I'm looking right now is circa 1960's with heart pine members and rosewood (no shit) legs, but it will be a colossal project, a lot of it being significant leather restoration, which I'm only a novice at (and a four hour round trip to go pick up)I buy antique furniture for this very reason. I can't live my life surrounded by fucking garbage. Life is way too short for that. Since I can't afford to buy primo original or already restored pieces from retail antique shops, I scalp stuff with great structural designs- but maybe ugly and in desperate need of refinish- used from craigslist, flea markets, garage sales, occasionally even ebay, and redo them. I've traveled 200 miles to pick up a piece I wanted. The step down in quality that occurred when we entered the age of 'mass-mass-mass production', then again when we standardized 3rd world outsourcing, is seen pretty clearly in a lot of things, but none more clear than furniture. It's almost impossible to buy good production furniture anymore at any price.

“There is nothing in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and he who considers price only is that man's lawful prey ... - J Ruskin

Of course, I might have many, many hours in redoing the stuff, that if I had to pay a pro to do would make it entirely cost prohibitive. In this regard, it's like buying broken vintage watches for $30, repairing/polishing them and then selling them for $200. If you have to pay someone else to do it, no go. If you can do it yourself, there's huge economy there. Same with vintage furniture. What you pay, what you get and what you wind up with after the project is done is value-palooza. Plus, it looks spectacular- better than the trash that you get from Ding Xiao Poo's World Of Oriental Made Sapwood and Particle Board Furniture. Ikea too. The old stuff was built so, so well. Obviously, tools are much the same. In my woodworking chest, I have tools that are 1 month old next to tools that are 100 years old. For example, the brass irrigation syringe in the top was made in the 1880's, that brass and rosewood bevel square is probably over 100 years old, the icepick I use for certain tasks (hard to see- shank partially covered by the dust masks) is 70-100 years old, the American Made forged chisels are all probably 40-70 years old- and that's just a random example. The wooden sanding blocks are modern made examples of a vintage design, since wooden blocks have a more forgiving control than modern, ultra aggressive ones. I have hand-carved wooden wood planes from Europe that are probably 200+ years old (no exaggeration) and still ticking along fine. Any one of these tools are massively superior to their modern counterparts. Of course, in that same chest, I have plastic syringes I use for regluing joints, you can see the modern tacking iron up there which I got very recently, etc. THe only piece in there that is irrationally old is the bevel square. I bought that because brass and rosewood looks a lot nicer than plastic and aluminum. The icepick, I used to carry and just retired it to the toolchest to act as a wood scribe, small indentations, picking shit out, whatever. Quality is getting hard to come by these days- sometimes, vintage is your only option, anymore.

[El Guapo 8]

My mother has collected antiques her entire life, to the point where she ended up opening an antique shop. I did not have any respect for the pieces she owned because I thought they were ugly and wanted something more modern. I think a lot of that reasoning is because she has no style and just pieces together a bunch of crap she likes.She has in the past decade really focused on art deco and mid century furniture. Some of it is really cool, some, not so much. But it's old enough where it is still well made. She has a HUGE couch she has been trying to find the perfect vintage upholstery. We were given a dining room set by my mother in law, that is solid Cherry Wood, it's a little more ornate than I would like, but it's very nice. We had it appraised and it's worth about $25,000 if it's in great condition. Right now it's probably worth about $10,000. I will never sell it.It has a brass stamp and is made by John Widdicomb Furniture.

[AmScray 355]

Yeah, 'old' doesn't nessacarily equate to 'desirable' given that a lot of older designs are ugly as sin (they loved pointless embellishments, which are very much against modern tastes) but usually, it's all well built. One of the hardest parts about antique furniture is that you want the quality, but finding a structural aesthetic that isn't gross can be challenging. It's out there, though.. and in some cases, if you have the right design sensibilities and the right tools, simple modifications can be done to undo the meretricious bullshit and make them look clean. Kills any 'collector' value, but in most cases, these pieces don't have a lot of that going for them and only have value on an aesthetic/utilitarian basis. I'm sure she's focusing on Midcentury/Danish Modern because that's what sells these days, although I think it's starting to decline in popularity a little bit.Here's a cool orange midcentury vinyl chair I pulled out of the trash a couple weeks back. You can see on the front of the seat cushion is vinyl glue presently under cure. It had a big tear in it, so this is my first time trying a vinyl repair kit. Also, the stitching on the seatback between the 'buttons' came undone and has a fissure. I don't know what I'm going to do with that. If it doesn't turn out how I want it, I'll punt, but I'm really hoping it does. This one's a keeper for my personal decor. In terms of quality, there really isn't anything comparable to production furniture made in the machine age, 1870'ish until before WW2. No, it doesn't have the mojo of the purely handmade stuff of the earlier era, but the blend of mechanical precision and insanely talented craftsmen put out a product that was top quality. I'd guess that a significantly higher percentage of the overall production of any line of furniture made in 1902 still survives today, compared to something made in the 1992. Also, you have to consider the wood availability they had back then, which just doesn't exist today. I'm regularly sanding and framming on pieces of furniture that I pull from the trash or pay nickels for off craigslist that couldn't be closely duplicated today, save for spending epic cash at a rare hardwoods dealer- and in some cases, even that wouldn't be enough. Some of the hardwood types, in these sizes, just doesn't exist at all, anymore.

[El Guapo 8]

I built this for my son a couple years ago. It's solid birch (Well, the side are Birch plywood).I spent over $250 just on the wood.

[AmScray 355]

I built this for my son a couple years ago. It's solid birch (Well, the side are Birch plywood).I spent over $250 just on the wood.

That's really good. Love the design (A+ on the subtle stain blends), the grain you chose was great and the piano hinge was definitely the right call. Toy chest? Did you design that yourself or go from plans?You spent $250 on the wood one time, it will live to be used by your great-great-great-great grandchildren

[El Guapo 8]

That's really good. Love the design (A+ on the subtle stain blends), the grain you chose was great and the piano hinge was definitely the right call. Toy chest? Did you design that yourself or go from plans?You spent $250 on the wood one time, it will live to be used by your great-great-great-great grandchildren

Did it myself. A buddy of mine and I decided we were going to build them for our kids for Christmas. I did the finger cut outs since I did the piano hinge instead of that interior hinge that bends in half and locks into place that is supposed to be a safety hinge but if a kid got his finger in it, it would tear it off.And, yes it's a toy chest. It's huge too. I think it's 28" tall and 34" wide. It weighs well over 100lbs.I have some brass letter I am going to stamp in the back then burn in with a wood burning iron. I just have been lazy since I did it 3+ years ago.I also built my daughter changing table. It's out of poplar and sits on top of her solid pine furniture that we were given. It's all painted white, that's why I went with polar.Pending is a jewelry box for my daughter, i just need to get a few more tools before I tackle that. Oh, and some time.

[digitalmonkey 929]

I once made a spice rack.

[digitalmonkey 929]

New discovery last night....A little spoonful of ice cream on a soda cracker. MMMMMmmmmmmmm

[AmScray 355]

Pending is a jewelry box for my daughter, i just need to get a few more tools before I tackle that. Oh, and some time.

Yeah, my next one is this. I will be availing myself of a lot of help and expertise from the old guys on this one. http://www.numisology.com/Coin-cabinet-1.htmlBack in the old days of coin collecting, numismatists used cabinets to store their coins. I really like that method, since the coins are so easy to retrieve and examine without all of the bullshit of stapled 2X2 cardboard holders, mylar flips or professionally encapsulated slabs. Anyway, I'll be doing some minor mods to that design (he should've thrown those legs and casters in the trash) but overall, I can't wait to have one. I'm going with some import-banned hardwoods for the drawer fronts not because I want to, but because I want to make a statement that I support the destruction of the Amazonian rain forest, even if it's only by proxy, many years after the fact.