srblan
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Posts posted by srblan
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I just don't see how betting will clean up any outs. What will you get to fold that takes outs away from you? A9? KQ isn't folding here... You might get ace high to fold, but since you'll probably need to improve to win, why not keep the ace highs in?
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Why call on the flop and then fold on the turn? Did you think that the 7 helped him?
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If you aren't bluffing, why would you want them to respect your bets or raises?
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What's a real pro table?
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I like how his clock is not set to local time
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lol, I would have beaten him unconscious with a clock, then called clock.
Wow, you were really generous to give him that much time before calling the clock.P.S. Unless 10 min. was an exaggeration.7:27 - 7 limpers for 1200. Button makes it 15k. Barry Shulman (2nd limper) makes it 80k (all in). Button thinks for 10 minutes. I call clock and the guy folds TT. Barry shows AQ. -
600-1200 with a 200 ante means that it costs 3800 a round to play, 30000 would definitely need to take some risks to double up.
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There was a bet, he raised, and he got put all in. He was probably committed.Yeah but with blinds of only 600/1200, why did he call 30K of his chips with an openended str8 draw? Seems like a bad play to me.Like I'm the one to judge his play, LOL. -
He didn't have a very big stack, so almost any action that Daniel took would probably have pot-stuck him.Did he have the odds to call that? Because even if his opponent was bluffing, Negreanu still had nothing at all. -
lol, I was thinking the same thingOh well, at least DN will have time for the big game tonight. Looks like that game is forming nicely with Gus, Doyle, Johnny, Chau, Eli, and now Daniel eliminated. -
Chau Giang just went out too...
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He's out of the tourney now, though...
http://www.cardplayer.com/player_of_the_ye...angos&year=2005 yep can't really disagree with ya here. He's #12 on Cardplayer of the year list...DN is #13Nick Frangos has been doing quite well this year. -
I'm trying to figure out the best way to figure this out using a simulation. It will probably require writing some code, which I might not have time to do until the weekend. Hopefully I can come up with a decent answer shortly.
As usual, we are getting a little off topic. I know it is a rip off that Party takes 10%. I know it is like a lottery. I know more fish play there. However, once again the question is, what are the best cards to play to Win the Jackpot? (IE the losing hand) or if you are going for either the bad beat (50% after party takes there cut etc...) OR the winning hand. One previous post thinks any suited connectors or pairs 8,8 or higher. However, consider that 2,3 can only lost to a higher straight flush. Where as 8,8 can lose to a higher quad or a straight flush. So, If 25% is what you are going for IE if the winning hand is good enough for you (it is for me, now it is over $383000 so 25% is over $67000) why would you play 2,3s ?I need someone to research this on the net or some brilliant math people to show me the calculations.owise1
Yeah this just seems like such a rip offSeems to me that playing for the bad beat jackpot is almost like playing the lottery.
.According to PP: For every raked hand played on the Progressive Bad Beat Jackpot tables a jackpot contribution of 50 cents will be collected from the pot.Every time the jackpot is hit, 70% of the jackpot amount will be distributed and 20% will be used as seed amount for the next jackpot. 10% will be retained by Party Poker as administrative fee.The current jackpot is $354,000 and climbing so PP is going to make over $35,ooo when they pay out the next jackpot 
that's insane!!! -
Every once in a while when you play, stop for a second and go through a quick checklist (here's an example, I have ADD too, and I try to do something like this every so often while I play): 1) How do I feel? Am I tense because I feel like I keep getting outdrawn? 2) Am I making good decisions? 3) On the plays where I've gotten beat this session, could I have done anything different? Or, did I have my opponent right where I wanted them and the cards failed to cooperate? 4) Am I getting bored folding? (This is a big one for me, because if I start to get bored, I'll start losing discipline and the money will soon disappear) 5) Am I playing to win, or am I playing to make up a loss? (If you start chasing bankroll, you are only going to lose more) 6) When was the last time I ate something? (Blood sugar and concentration level are directly linked in people with ADD. If you haven't eaten in 4 hours, there is no way you are at your best)This last one is a question that I ask myself when I'm deciding if I want to rebuy (I have started limiting myself to a strict one rebuy maximum rule. If I lose two rebuys, I quit for the session or I switch tables): 7) What is my table image like? Have the other people at the table been watching me get outdrawn and started to feel like I'm an easy target? If people stop respecting your raises, switch games. In low-limit, you want them to chase you, but you also want them to occasionally fear your raises. Why? Well, as you know from SSHE, you make money by forcing your opponents to make mistakes. If you become feared, you can sometimes get your opponents to fold draws, even though the odds dictate that they shouldn't. They will often fear the worst: always putting you on a set or something huge. Anyway, don't get frustrated, that will be the worst thing for your game. Try switching games too, as suggested earlier, but stay away from big bet games (NL, PL) when you feel like you are running bad because you are likely to go broke if you aren't careful. Good luck.
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That would be the main reason that I'd think of to justify it...I play on teh Bad Deat tables cause the competition is extra weak, the the small drop gets made up for with my extra BBs that I get from the bad players -
A7. I'd still have capped the river.How about this hand?PokerStars 0.25/0.50 Hold'em (10 handed) converterPreflop: Hero is UTG with [7s], [7d]. Hero calls, 1 fold, SB completes, BB checks.Flop: (6 SB) [Jd], [Ad], [7c] (6 players)SB checks, BB checks, Hero bets, UTG+2 calls, MP3 calls, CO calls, SB folds, BB folds.Turn: (5 BB) [Ac] (4 players)Hero bets, Hero calls.River: (14 BB) [Qd] (2 players)Hero bets, Hero calls.Final Pot: 18 BBKnowing that he'll probably cap the river, is it ok to just call this since I have the worst possible boat? Is it too weak? And as a bonus, can anyone guess CO's hand? I'll give you a hint.. I was quite censored off. -
To make sure that I answered your question, the correct time to fold your hand was preflop. Once you saw the flop, you'd really only want to fold if you missed on the river (which you did), though Sklansky would probably say call, since the pot is too big to fold, though based on the action in the hand, I'd say folding on the river is definitely an option.
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Here's your hand history convertedParty Poker Limit Hold'em Tourney, Big Blind t15 (10 handed) converterHero (t800)UTG+2 (t665)MP1 (t1025)MP2 (t990)MP3 (t635)CO (t755)Button (t775)SB (t695)BB (t1040)UTG (t620)Preflop: Hero is UTG+1 with [Ah], [6h]. UTG calls, Hero calls, 3 folds, MP3 calls, CO calls, Button calls, SB completes, BB checks.Flop: (6.83 SB, t102.5) [4h], [3h], [Qd] (7 players)SB checks, BB bets, UTG folds, Hero calls, MP3 folds, Button calls.Turn: (8.91 BB, t267.5) [Jc] (3 players)BB bets, BB calls, Hero calls.River: (14.91 BB, t447.5) [Ad] (3 players)BB checks, Hero checks, Button bets, BB calls, Hero calls.Final Pot: 17.9166666666667 BB (t537.50)Results in white below: BB has 3c 4s (two pair, fours and threes). Hero has Ah 6h (one pair, aces). Button has Qs Jd (two pair, queens and jacks). Outcome: Button wins 17.91 BB (t537.5). You may notice that you get trapped in the middle of two raising situations. This is a good reason not to play this type of hand out of position. However, on the flop, by the time the first round of betting gets to you, there are 9 small bets in the pot. You are okay to call on the flop, though once it got three bet, I'd be seriously considering throwing my hand. This may not be correct mathematically, since the pot is getting pretty big, but if you're up against a set, you have fewer outs than you thought (if you are going to stay in the pot on the flop, capping it might not be a bad idea, since it might get the others to slow down on the turn). On the turn, you are definitely getting a good price to call and try to hit your flush. I'd have called on the turn and then folded on the river. I would find it very hard to believe that my ace could be good at that point.
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It's funny that you mention buying lottery tickets, because you'd probably have better EV buying lottery tickets than paying the rake on the jackpot tables :wink:
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If you are looking for SF over SF situations, you are correct, this would be the best time to be drawing for the sucker end of the SF. However, if you are looking to beat quads, suited one-gappers would give you yet another opportunity to do so. For example, that 68s would be great on a board of 7, 9, 10 if you were up against 10-10 or 9-9. If you want every possible opportunity to win a jackpot, quads over quads, SF over SF, and SF over quads cover all the possibilities, but if you are looking to only get involved when you can win the biggest part of the jackpot, then playing suited connectors and pairs 8 and above are your best shot.
The problem with playing a one or two gap hand is that four cards need to come up on the board instead of three (for a one gap hand for example).If i have 6,8s I need the 7,9 &10. Now the 7 can't help my apponent becasue I have the 6&8. Thus at best, the 9&10 give my apponent a draw for one more card to make their higher str8 flush. For example, they could be holding the j,q and need the k or holding the q,k and need the j. So, whatever the probability of getting three cards on the board to help me AND my apponent has to be lower than getting four cards on the board. With a two gap hand the problem and probabilty is just exaccerbated. Like to have a math guy comment on this.If you really want to play for the jackpot, play the biggest limit that you can afford, you'll have to work a lot harder to overcome the rake. I haven't done any simulations as to which hands are most likely to yield a jackpot, but common sense would dictate suited connectors (maybe one and two gappers, but this is likely to cost you some money in small pots), and pairs 8 and above. .
Agreed. Like i said before, playing for the Jackpot and playing good solid poker are not the same, probably mutually exclusive. Owise1The way that you are likely to make the most money, though, is not playing for the jackpot, rather, taking advantage of loose play due to the jackpot. I'm not sure if this will overcome the rake, but you really can't force a jackpot, it will generally come about in the normal course of play. -
I think that your question is probably answered by now, but just to reiterate, do we raise? In O8b, nope, in PLO, maybe, provided that the hand is coordinated, since KK or QQ alone (like KK84) is actually a really bad hand. KK23 or QQ23 are decent hands in O8, AKK2 or hands like that are quite strong. I still am not that crazy about raising with a hand like AKK2 because that usually signals to your opponents that your hand has an A2 in it and will allow them to adjust accordingly. If the hand comes something like K 3 8, you might cause someone with a set of 8s to fold because they are afraid of your low, you want them in for as long as possible, since you are very likely to scoop or 3/4, and they are very likely to pay you off with a second best holding.
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SS2 makes no mention of PLO8. It is good in other respects, but don't buy it looking for information on that particular game. Only a pretty bad player would pot that particular flop without a wheel. If someone calls in front of you on the flop, you might be able to find a call (note, this is VERY marginal), but if the board doesn't pair on the turn, the hand is done for you.
I don't even know how to think of my own play, let alone others. I just respected him because he didn't lose his entire stack to me when we played heads up like everyone else does at the 1c/2c level.I'm going to have to buy SS2. It's starting to become apparent that I know a lot less than I thought about this game.Actually, if you respect his play, I would definitely put him on 25 for the wheel, since he bet pot on the flop into that large field. (I would've expected A235 or something instead of what he had, but he was probably just making a speculative preflop raise with a mediocre hand to vary his play or something along those lines.) If I held your hand, I probably call the preflop raise, and fold the flop, since I'd respect the flop bet. But if I was reading the guy as a maniac, I'd end up losing big on this hand I think, because I'd reraise him preflop, and then when he caught that flop I'd be in trouble and probably lose my buy-in, since I'd have such a huge piece of the flop, and I wouldn't respect his betting. -
You play top two pair in any omaha the same way porcupines make love... Very carefully. I'm not sure who I ripped that off of, but it's appropriate here. You don't want to value bet it, because sets appear so much more often. If you make the nut full house, bet it agressively to get the smaller full houses to pay you off.Whenever I flop top two pair in omaha/8 there is always two to a flush. What is the best way to play top two pair in a multi-way pot that has two to a flush? -
I've never heard of PLO8 in a casino, and I don't think many places spread PLO anymore either. I'd check the Orleans, that might be your best shot. During the WSOP, there might be other places that spread it too, but it's going to be tough to find now.Anyone know of any Vegas Casinos that offer this game? The only ones I know of are Limit. thanks.
for all hold 'em addicts
in General Strategy
Posted
I play stud quite often to build a roll. The antes mean that you'll get a lot more loose calls early on. That means that your strong hands will get cracked more often, but your really strong hands well get rewarded heavily. Tight third street strategy and always drawing live are keys to success in this game, and the latter is much more important than the former.