online level gradations

[CobaltBlue 662]

Back when I started playing online last October, I started at .05/.10 NLHE and climbed my way up through the levels. By Christmas, I was regularly playing .25/.50. By January, I was playing .50/1. By February, I was playing 1/2. Finally, in March I hit 2/4. I only played there a few times before realizing that I wasn't ready and was playing pretty far above my bankroll. I'd tried to be methodical with my climb, but I wasn't patient enough. I didn't go broke or anything, but that possibility was there if I didn't move down.So I went back to .25/.50 to build a big enough bankroll. I got much more comfortable on my second time through. Eventually, when I had the proper roll, I hit .50/1 again. I killed that level. Then, early last month I got back to 1/2. And, I've been killing that level too. Well, my roll ($5.1k) is now big enough to play 2/4 (or at least take a shot at it). I've just got some hesitancy, because it's still kind of new to me, and I still remember losing $330 on KK.Okay...so for the question. Where do y'all feel the level of play begins to change online in NLHE? I seem to remember it's either 2/4, 3/6, or 5/10, but I don't remember what the consensus was, and I'm not sure about how to search for it.

[Jordan 1]

That's only like 13.5 buyins...which IMO is enough, but if you are hesistant, why go for it?Why not wait till you have 20 or 25 buy ins.If you are beating 1/2 handidly this shouldn't take you much longer.- Jordan

[Mattnxtc 0]

cobalt...i usually have waited till i have 15-20 buy ins...and more importantly to when i feel i can push my entire buy in on a hand and not feel like its the end of the world if i lose the hand. I dont know ur nl style (have a decent read on yah at limit haha) but i like to push people around and if i dont feel comfortable about it then im not ready for that limit.

[Binbs 0]

Cobalt, I would personally from experience recommend waiting till you have about 8-10 k before moving up to 2/4. 2/4 has more swings because the opponents are more aggressive and swings are bigger.Im not saying its not possible, but too many times Ive moved up to 2/4 to have to move back down.You should be able to easily kill the 1/2 games enough to make another 2-3 k before moving up imo.

[CobaltBlue 662]

Well, I went ahead and pulled up a 2/4 table this afternoon and won around $230 there. I think I'm gradually going to phase it in and be picky about looking for ripe tables. Today I had a good mix of four tables: .50/1 NLHE (working on my PokerRewards BR), 1/2 NLHE, 2/4 NLHE, and 1/2 LHE 6-max. I don't think it's something I need to be intimidated by.Thanks for comments confidence, guys.

[skoal_dip 0]

In my 2-4 PStars experience, which is limited to a few hours, the players are less fishy and much more aggressive, I couldn't handle it and dropped back down to 1-2 with my tail in between my legs. Not saying that we'll happen to you at all, just saying I found it to be pretty difficult. Building up to 20 buyins, i think is a good idea, you'll be more comfortable, and have more experience.

[CobaltBlue 662]

I took another shot at it last night. Doubled up pretty quickly in winning my biggest pot ever ($820). KJo decided to pay off my 66 on a board of Jx6x.

[allinbluff35 0]

you don't have a big enough bankroll to take a shot at it and certainly don't have a big enough to make it your regular game, JMO.

[teneight 1]

i play 1-2nl and 2-4nl. the action is much more aggressive. I only play 6 max tables, so it's a really really fast aggressive game. tough game when you first start off, but easy money once you become good at it 20 full buy ins is the general rule i follow for NL ring games

[CobaltBlue 662]

you don't have a big enough bankroll to take a shot at it and certainly don't have a big enough to make it your regular game, JMO.

all, I'm currently at $5.4k (after cashing out $750). How is 13.5 buy-ins not enough to take a shot at it? It's hard for me to even remember the last time I lost a full buy-in at a NL table. How about this...if I drop to $4.8, I will stop playing it.

[Chief 0]

I remember 2/4 and 3/6 NL 6max feeling very different on party.i played only 10k hands or so at 3/6 NL though

[DrawingDeadInDM 0]

you don't have a big enough bankroll to take a shot at it and certainly don't have a big enough to make it your regular game, JMO.

all, I'm currently at $5.4k (after cashing out $750). How is 13.5 buy-ins not enough to take a shot at it? It's hard for me to even remember the last time I lost a full buy-in at a NL table. How about this...if I drop to $4.8, I will stop playing it.

13.5 buy-ins may be enough, but why risk it?One night where the deck kicks you in the dick and a third of your roll's gone, ya know?Ultimately, it's up to you, but, I stay patient and grind it out some more before moving up.

[allinbluff35 0]

all, I'm currently at $5.4k (after cashing out $750). How is 13.5 buy-ins not enough to take a shot at it? It's hard for me to even remember the last time I lost a full buy-in at a NL table. How about this...if I drop to $4.8, I will stop playing it.

i forgot you're the one that never loses, might as well go to 5/10 NL.

[CobaltBlue 662]

Ah. Hubris. The deck "kicked me in the dick" yesterday. It wasn't even 2/4 really. That was a small part of it, but 1/2 NLHE and 1/2 LHE decided to tear me apart. So I dropped a bit below the cut-off that I promised (to $4.7k)...so more 1/2 for a while.Man...I forgot how much losing sucks. I dug myself into three different $400 holes over the course of 18 hours. I managed to climb out of one of them. I'm not quite sure what the hell happened. I ran into quads enough times to make my head spin. I think I started taking the game personally...which is never good.

[CobaltBlue 662]

Let me add that I'm noticing that there's a move that seems much more common at 2/4. I ran into several opponents who delighted in calling pre-flop and then calling the flop continuation bet ("knowing" that you missed) and then putting you to a big decision on the turn after you check. The only counter that I could figure out was to start check-raising them on the turn (as they respect that more than a bet)...but this obviously runs quite a bit of risk when all you're holding are overs. Is this really the best counter?

[NoSup4U 0]

If you think that an opponent will put you to the test on the turn if you check and you are thinking of check raising them, you could always just not check the turn, and force them to the higher risk decision if they decide to come over you. (which I think also defines their hand much more)Edit: Definitely a check raise is respected more than a flat bet. But a flat bet holds so much less risk for you, and IMO keeps more fear in people. If they want to call your flop bet, they know they they better have something because they'll be facing another bet on the turn.As always too, variety is the spice of life. Don't let your turn play define your hand.Mark

[DrawingDeadInDM 0]

If you think that an opponent will put you to the test on the turn if you check and you are thinking of check raising them, you could always just not check the turn, and force them to the higher risk decision if they decide to come over you. (which I think also defines their hand much more)Edit: Definitely a check raise is respected more than a flat bet. But a flat bet holds so much less risk for you, and IMO keeps more fear in people. If they want to call your flop bet, they know they they better have something because they'll be facing another bet on the turn.As always too, variety is the spice of life. Don't let your turn play define your hand.Mark

I agree with Mark.I think leading the turn again tells the other player that they better find a hand to keep calling this down. IF you're raised, with nothing, you can fold.If you check/raise, you're investing more, with nothing, and if you get re-raised, you've cost yourself a lot of extra money.

[CobaltBlue 662]

I guess I've usually just given up by the turn if I haven't made a hand. Continuation betting the turn often seems to get me in trouble.