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O.k. I have been playing .25 NL 20-50bb mostly and some 40-100bb. I have logged about 4k hands in the past 2 months (took first 2 weeks off in July, so really 6 weeks worth). A session for me is 1-2 table if at work or on laptop, and 3-4 table at home. Have played with 5-6 tables a few times, but no luck there yet. Session times generally 30-60 mins, a few have been 1-2 hours. I have posted about $400 + profit, but before I move up to deeper stacks and $1 NL, I want to check on some strategy that has been working for me here, but may not work deeper stacked or higher levels.1) Mostly I am open raising to .75 on any Ax Kx suited hands. If someone 3x open in front of me I flat it. Generally at flop if I brick I will sometimes bet if they are short and just check and see what they do if I am OOP heads up. Check if multiway. If I am OP I am mostly betting 1/2 to 2/3 pot no matter if I just completely brick the flop, or catch part of it.2) Any Ax, KQ, KJ and sometimes J10 hands from late position, ie CO, Button, SB, BB and sometimes CO+1 I am open raising to .75 and if there is a limp then I will go $1. Generally if there is an open raise before me then it depends on how the person has been playing, how deep they are, etc. if I will flat or fold it. Probably 60% of the time I am flatting and re-eval based on the flop.I have found that being aggressive pays off alot at .25. Some better players catch on and I can see them start to exploit me, and I will tighten up or play more cautious, but mostly if you bet 1/2 3/4 pot at any high card flop after you opened raised, then 75% of the time others will fold. If they call you and or raise, then they have you beat. Sometimes there are players that can disguise there hands, but If I get 30 1 hour in a session with the general same players, I will pay them off just to see If I am correct on there hand range and I am close to correct 75% of the time. I feel like I have a good grasp on .25 NL, and just want to get some input before I test the waters on the next level.Thanks again to all the guys that post HELPFUL info in the strat forums: rrumsey, basejeseter, ninja ace, mtdesmoines, King James and a few others I forgot about.

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O.k. I have been playing .25 NL 20-50bb mostly and some 40-100bb. I have logged about 4k hands in the past 2 months (took first 2 weeks off in July, so really 6 weeks worth). A session for me is 1-2 table if at work or on laptop, and 3-4 table at home. Have played with 5-6 tables a few times, but no luck there yet. Session times generally 30-60 mins, a few have been 1-2 hours. I have posted about $400 + profit, but before I move up to deeper stacks and $1 NL, I want to check on some strategy that has been working for me here, but may not work deeper stacked or higher levels.1) Mostly I am open raising to .75 on any Ax Kx suited hands. If someone 3x open in front of me I flat it. Generally at flop if I brick I will sometimes bet if they are short and just check and see what they do if I am OOP heads up. Check if multiway. If I am OP I am mostly betting 1/2 to 2/3 pot no matter if I just completely brick the flop, or catch part of it.2) Any Ax, KQ, KJ and sometimes J10 hands from late position, ie CO, Button, SB, BB and sometimes CO+1 I am open raising to .75 and if there is a limp then I will go $1. Generally if there is an open raise before me then it depends on how the person has been playing, how deep they are, etc. if I will flat or fold it. Probably 60% of the time I am flatting and re-eval based on the flop.I have found that being aggressive pays off alot at .25. Some better players catch on and I can see them start to exploit me, and I will tighten up or play more cautious, but mostly if you bet 1/2 3/4 pot at any high card flop after you opened raised, then 75% of the time others will fold. If they call you and or raise, then they have you beat. Sometimes there are players that can disguise there hands, but If I get 30 1 hour in a session with the general same players, I will pay them off just to see If I am correct on there hand range and I am close to correct 75% of the time. I feel like I have a good grasp on .25 NL, and just want to get some input before I test the waters on the next level.Thanks again to all the guys that post HELPFUL info in the strat forums: rrumsey, basejeseter, ninja ace, mtdesmoines, King James and a few others I forgot about.
1.) i think we need to adjust our opening sizes based on position and stack sizes. Here are some examples:a. if people dont call being OOP, say we have the button and tight blinds, 2.5xing isnt bad. lets us do it wider and still be profitableb. if people are LP's, open big, like 4-5 X pre. This lets us cbet and take nice scores down by exploiting there biggest mistake, calling too much pre and then folding when missedc. If we are OP, bet bigger. Like in the SB, MP, UTG, doesnt have to be much but just discourage people form making life hard for you by having to be OOP postflop. * basically we are doing this with equity always so dont define your hand by your sizing, just play your position and play the hand decent postflop. 2.) Your describing hands that i sometimes 3 bet with and sometimes flat with. Dont just say; i flat this bc whatever. We need to say is villain opening enough to fold to a 3bet a decent % the time, then ask does he call a 3 bet a lot. Also position. when IP, im more inclined to 3 bet these hands mostly, and OOP, more inclined to fold. Calling OOP with hands that are drawing is fundamentally bad longrun because we burn money every time we miss. Things to think about!
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b. if people are LP's, open big, like 4-5 X pre. This lets us cbet and take nice scores down by exploiting there biggest mistake, calling too much pre and then folding when missed
Good info here. Guys that don't auto-reload and that start the table with the min. are bad about calling too much. I have recognized when they are chasing and I have the made hand, and will bet size them down to almost nothing before they release.
2.) Your describing hands that i sometimes 3 bet with and sometimes flat with. Dont just say; i flat this bc whatever. We need to say is villain opening enough to fold to a 3bet a decent % the time, then ask does he call a 3 bet a lot. Also position. when IP, im more inclined to 3 bet these hands mostly, and OOP, more inclined to fold.
More good points. Basically 3-bet in-position more on players that are pre-flop calling stations, and pickup an extra $1-$3 when they brick, no matter if I have it or not. Basically playing the player/position/stack size and not so much cards.
Calling OOP with hands that are drawing is fundamentally bad longrun because we burn money every time we miss.
Very good point. This is probably my biggest weakness is that I have been playing these types of hands alot, and if I am lucky 10% of the time I actually hit it by the turn. Usually I will be a bit more aggressive by checking OP/OOP then if the turn bricks again bet/reraise thin to get villain to fold, or reraise thin flop to get V to fold. If he calls either reraise then he will have it and I will let go if I brick the turn/river but at a higher level I know this will not work and I will get turned upside down on my head and get pounded if I try this line. Still tweaking a bit, but maybe by another month I will try to step up to $1 NL.Thanks!
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This is good info, Im playing at the same stakes and trying to define a playing style, thanks for posting this stuff.
Ok here is a basic breakdown:Loose passive players: these guys will have the major leak of calling too much pre and never raising pre, so there range for raising is super transparent. Beyond this there is 2 types of loose passives:1. calling stations- pot odds, outs, they mean nothing they will call down with K high, why,.... i really dont know. they just sucks. value bet 2nd pair, maybe even good 3rd pairs against him, it is probably good. Remember if they raise they have the nuts, so fold the 2nd nuts you seriously like never good. but only if they are a true station.2. the touristly bad loose passive donk- these kinda LP's fold every time they miss, call with any draw or any pair. and raise with top pair zerp kicker. value town them with you good hands, but realize they tend to over value top pair with bad kickers, so be willing to go broke with AJ on an AXXX board. Aggressive Players:1. the bad aggro, raise weak hands, weak draw, and does it into strength, these players miss understand hand value, aka bad loose aggro2. bully- just attacks weakness. is a bit of a thinking player3. Tight Aggro-waits for good hands and trys to vbet, and may semibluff very good draws4. the bad reg- trys to be tag, but tends to call 3 bets too light, and simple just has lots of leaks, but thinks he is god at poker and will always play you. take notes and you should over a few sessions see massive holes in his game5. solid regs- dont make mistakes, play well, and adjust well to the players at the table. doesnt play 1 type of poker, but lets the game decide what is best for him. 6. the good loose aggro- just run and hide, they are very good and are going to apply a ton of pressure and create the effects they want. just cooler him or leaveTrappy players:they love to just do weird bet sizes, love to check raise, love to try and be tricky with there strong hands, and sometimes weak hands. They generally have good hands and are trying to get payed off by doing weird stuff. just remember if they seem to want to push you out, they probably are on the weak side, and if the give you reasons to stay, run and hide. make a reraise or so against this guy and show you know how to deal with him and he will simply assume he has bigger fish to fry. they tend to be thinking players so dont assume they will never reverse things once they show you somethingany help?
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