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BB is a 30/20/3 after 150 hands. Button is a 25/0/1.5 after 40 hands and has cold called multiple times. Limit Holdem Ring game4 playersConverterPre-flop: (4 players) Hero is UTG with A :D T :club:Hero raises, Button calls, SB folds, BB 3-bets, Hero calls, Button calls.Flop: 3 :ts 4 :5c A :3h (9.4SB, 3 players)BB bets, Hero raises, Button folds, BB calls.Turn: 3 :qh (6.7BB, 2 players)BB checks, Hero checks.River: 5 :4h (6.7BB, 2 players)BB bets, Hero calls.Results:Final pot: 8.7BB

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BB is a 30/20/3 after 150 hands. Button is a 25/0/1.5 after 40 hands and has cold called multiple times. Limit Holdem Ring game4 playersConverterPre-flop: (4 players) Hero is UTG with A :D T :club:Hero raises, Button calls, SB folds, BB 3-bets, Hero calls, Button calls.Flop: 3 :ts 4 :5c A :3h (9.4SB, 3 players)BB bets, Hero raises, Button folds, BB calls.Turn: 3 :qh (6.7BB, 2 players)BB checks, Hero checks.River: 5 :4h (6.7BB, 2 players)BB bets, Hero calls.Results:Final pot: 8.7BB
For the record, this goes in the shorthanded forum.Ok, preflop is obviously good. On the flop, in this short of a game, I like the raise, but you lose me on the turn. Bet that turn every time. You're going to get value out of every single spade he's got that he peeled the flop with. He's almost never going to fold any pocket pair on this board, and you just rate to have the best hand most of the time. Knowing that you come from a full ring background, I think that you may be giving him too tight of a range once he 3 bets you and peels vs. the raise. I'd just raise and bet for value the whole way, slowing down to a calldown if you're raised at any point.I'd also like to say that a call on the flop is fine, since you'll induce some light peels from the 3rd player.
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Heh, I forgot there was a shorthanded forum.I am thinking his range is pretty narrow after he 3bet pre and b/c the flop, like I'm expecting a c/r on the turn. I didn't think about the spades or getting called down by pocket pairs.

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often time in a spot like this ill just call all three streets unless i hit a ten.
I'm fine with this, but if you're doing that you are going to have to play some of your draws passively as well.
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I'm fine with this, but if you're doing that you are going to have to play some of your draws passively as well.
lately ive noticed that people will call down on a board like that with 66 even if you manage to raise them on the turn. i dont feel like i have a lot of fold equity on that board against a 3 better, so yes in this situation i also play my draws passively.
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lately ive noticed that people will call down on a board like that with 66 even if you manage to raise them on the turn. i dont feel like i have a lot of fold equity on that board against a 3 better, so yes in this situation i also play my draws passively.
But isn't that a reason to raise with the AT aaaaand the draws? I mean say you have K9s here, you've got like 55% equity (or whatever it is) vs. that 66 anyway and he's not going to fire 3 streets for value on most turns and rivers with that type of hand. Also, I know that with a draw that good keeping the 3rd opponent in isn't necessarily bad, but what if we clean up all K outs and maybe give ourselves some bluff outs like Q's and J's by driving the 3rd player out. And if the bettor's calling down with those 66 type hands anyway, I think we can agree that an A this good is not only ahead of his flop-betting range, but his call-down range as well right? *This is all advocating a flop raise, not a turn raise btw.IMO the call, call, call line is best only vs. either a very balanced, very good opponent or a super bluffy opponent who isn't that showdown bound. (I may be missing some player types here, but this is pretty off the cuff stuff anyway, just trying to prompt discussion.)
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I call the flop and bet or raise/call the turn unless the SB is a super nit...in which case, I call down. (I also play draws like this.)

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I call the flop and bet or raise/call the turn unless the SB is a super nit...in which case, I call down. (I also play draws like this.)
Sounds good to me. What are you doing with like 88 here?
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Sounds good to me. What are you doing with like 88 here?
Probably still calling down by default (we can still beat an aggro 77/66/55/22 or Ksx/Qsx and I've seen wonkier)...though moving more towards fold without the 8s and/or against a nittier opponent. I think that'd go roughly the same for 22, 55-99. As we move to the higher pairs, I would've capped pre.
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Probably still calling down by default (we can still beat an aggro 77/66/55/22 or Ksx/Qsx and I've seen wonkier)...though moving more towards fold without the 8s and/or against a nittier opponent. I think that'd go roughly the same for 22, 55-99. As we move to the higher pairs, I would've capped pre.
The main reason I asked wasn't so much to check up on you here as I'm sure you've considered the alterations you have to make to different parts of your range based on what you do with the others. I sort of just wanted to illustrate that effect with a practical discussion. Thank you for playing along sir. :club: P.S. I like your style.
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I call the flop and bet or raise/call the turn unless the SB is a super nit...in which case, I call down. (I also play draws like this.)
Are you raising the turn with draws here for a free showdown, to fold out bluffs, or to give yourself some bluff equity on the river? All of the above? Or something I'm missing?
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Are you raising the turn with draws here for a free showdown, to fold out bluffs, or to give yourself some bluff equity on the river? All of the above? Or something I'm missing?
Free showdown in some rare scenarios and then the other two are good too. Occasionally villains will fold better hands than ours.Basically, it balances our range a lot. Once we peel the flop, our range is still quite wide, and thus they have no real knowledge whether we're going to fold, call, or raise if they bet the turn. It punishes the overly aggro players, cause we're frequently value-popping them or value-calling them on the big streets.
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