Car Talk

[JubilantLankyLad 1,957]

Dear Brvheart (or whoever),My girlfriend has a 2000 CR-V. Last night, when leaving the grocery store, she had some trouble shifting gears, but made it home ok. This morning the car started fine, but she was unable to shift gears at all. Obviously the clutch is going down ok, since she was able to turn the car on, but she said it does feel a little loose, whatever that means. She, after some cursory research, seems to think it may be an issue with the clutch fluid. She purchased the car a few months ago and hasn't had anything looked at since. Is the clutch fluid thing a possibility, and something I could try to replace/fix? Or should this just go to a mechanic?Thanks for any ideas. Speedz

Buy a Ford - this year they were rated #1 in Initial Quality amongst other not-good cars for the first time ever.

[brvheart 1,751]

You should take it to a mechanic. Preferably one who specializes in transmissions, like the AAMCO on Boston Turnpike Rt9 in Shrewsbury or Acme Transmission on Southbridge St in Worcester. If you call them first, they may include towing in the repair.AAMCO - 508-755-5300Acme - 508-754-9669Note to Ouch: I hate you.

[JubilantLankyLad 1,957]

You should take it to a mechanic. Preferably one who specializes in transmissions, like the AAMCO on Boston Turnpike Rt9 in Shrewsbury or Acme Transmission on Southbridge St in Worcester. If you call them first, they may include towing in the repair.AAMCO - 508-755-5300Acme - 508-754-9669Note to Ouch: I hate you.

Note to Speedz: brv's advice seems far better than mineNote to brv: just gotta score me some kooty points. you know how it is.

[speedz99 145]

You should take it to a mechanic. Preferably one who specializes in transmissions, like the AAMCO on Boston Turnpike Rt9 in Shrewsbury or Acme Transmission on Southbridge St in Worcester. If you call them first, they may include towing in the repair.AAMCO - 508-755-5300Acme - 508-754-9669

I can't just fill the clutch thing with fluid to see if that does the trick, and then drive it for a while to see if the level goes down, indicating a leak?

[brvheart 1,751]

I can't just fill the clutch thing with fluid to see if that does the trick, and then drive it for a while to see if the level goes down, indicating a leak?

Sure. But there is obviously something wrong, so isn't that just wasting time?

[speedz99 145]

Sure. But there is obviously something wrong, so isn't that just wasting time?

I guess. So, if the clutch fluid is the problem, it has to be a leak or another cause? It can't just be that it was never changed/refilled?

[brvheart 1,751]

I guess. So, if the clutch fluid is the problem, it has to be a leak or another cause? It can't just be that it was never changed/refilled?

Correct. It's like oil in your engine. If it's not there, it hasn't been evaporating, it's been leaking.

[speedz99 145]

Ok, thanks.

[GeneralGeeWhiz 0]

bump

[mrdannyg 274]

Short story:- I was in a minor car accident. No one is hurt. He has admitted fault. My car is in for an estimate, but I would guess the cost of repairs will cost several times what the car was worth.Questions:- what should I expect to be offered for my car by the insurance company? 1997 Ford Escort. Bought it for $1,000, though that was a deal from a family friend selling his deceased mother's car. It has only 100k on it. $1200? $2000?- through work, I get deals on cars. A couple of the deals include: - the 'employee price' - this website gives a pricing guide, and looks like it saves about $1k off an $18k car. - cost + 2%. Couldn't find any examples.Which is likely to offer me a better deal?Thanks!

[brvheart 1,751]

That is probably a question for Randy Reed more than for me.I was in an accident about 5 years ago with my 1996 Geo Metro (don't ask), and Progressive gave me a check for $1000. They said they didn't want the car, so I kept driving it.

[mrdannyg 274]

That is probably a question for Randy Reed more than for me.I was in an accident about 5 years ago with my 1996 Geo Metro (don't ask), and Progressive gave me a check for $1000. They said they didn't want the car, so I kept driving it.

Oops, thought this was Randy's thread. Sorry. I think my car would be driveable with only a few hundred bucks worth of repairs, so it is quite possible I go that route while waiting for a deal. Since it will mainly need body work, I'm hoping I can still sell it for an extra grand or so.

[Skeleton Jelly 2]

Can I get an estimate on this?

[ajs510 122]

Can I get an estimate on this?

Dr Ray Stantz: Everybody can relax, I found the car. Needs some suspension work and shocks. Brakes, brake pads, lining, steering box, transmission, rear-end...Dr. Peter Venkman: How much?Dr Ray Stantz: Only $4800.[Venkman looks shocked]Dr Ray Stantz: Also new rings, mufflers, a little wiring...

[AmScray 355]

My 95 Buick Roadmaster had 240,000 miles on it.(stock photo, exact car)Since my income stream just died, I've been spending savings 'preparing myself' for not having much money coming in for a while and shoring up the lifes basics... While it runs perfectly, the mileage is pretty much at max service life (even though people do get 300K out of these and this one has been well maintained). Sold my Roadmaster for $900.Bought another 1995 Roadmaster.114,000 miles, $3000. Should get another 10 years out of it. For those 10 years, I'll put $250 in the bank each month and pay myself, instead of the shylocks at the car finance company.$3000 paid to self per year ($250x12)- $1000 annual running costs$2000 saved per year -----------------------------------------------------------------10 year service life X $2000 annual savings-$5000 for incidental expenses/unexpected major repairs-$3000 upfront cost$12K total saved.

[El Guapo 8]

I thought you had a beater truck, or did that die?

[AmScray 355]

I thought you had a beater truck, or did that die?

I still do, but it's parked in a friends garage, in exchange for allowing him to use it whenever he needs a truck.I only use it when I 'need a truck' since it could completely disintegrate into a jumble of rust and duct tape at any time. Paying tag and insurance on it year after year is a bit of a leak, but I occasionally need a truck to make money, so it pays for itself.

[grocery_mony 8]

I have a 05 Escape. I took into a quick lube place today for a oil change and to replace the fuel filter. When I was just about to leave they said there was a problem with the plug for the oil pan and they would have to add the oil again. I asked what the problem was and they said there is no threads left in the plug hole that the plug was probally cross threaded. I told them that there the only ones ive ever taken it to then he kind of back tracked and said that the threads could have just worn down which is BS because there has never been even a drop of oil on the driveway. They put something on they said was basically a bigger plug with a smaller plug in the middle. I asked if it was a permanent solution and he said "its a solution". How much would it cost do you think to take it to a mechanic and get the hole drilled and rethreaded or do you think their "solution" will hold? Thanks

[GWCGWC 83]

Honestly, I'm surprised you were able to make it home.

 

 

That probably doesn't help.

[brvheart 1,751]

Never take the word of anyone trying to get you out the door as quickly as possible.

 

Definitely take it to a mechanic. Have them take pictures, and then try to get the LOF place to reimburse you.

[Dubey 1,035]

They probably Heli-coiled it, which is basically using a spring looking thing to create an artificial thread. It should hold, but I would be getting some kind of paper transaction outlining exactly what they did so if the plug drops out and you blow an engine you can be re-imbursed.

[Dubey 1,035]

Also, don't go to a quick lube. Those lube techs are making like $12 an hour and usually have little to zero actual mechanical qualifications. I Manage the service end of a Mazda Dealership, and in the 5ish years that I've worked here, we've had 4 blown engines come in just because of a careless F u ck-up by a quick lube. Plus, it's usually not cheaper than going to an actual mechanic, it's just more convenient.

[grocery_mony 8]

They probably Heli-coiled it, which is basically using a spring looking thing to create an artificial thread. It should hold, but I would be getting some kind of paper transaction outlining exactly what they did so if the plug drops out and you blow an engine you can be re-imbursed.

It wasnt that because they said I could get a mechanic to get a heli coil. I got it in a shop right now because there was a puddle of oil on the pavement this morning.

[Dubey 1,035]

Yikes, well whatever they did, doesn't sound like it worked. I'd try to get the shop that you took it to to contact the quick lube place directly to pay for your service Bill. That will be easier than trying to get reimbursed after the fact, as long as the shop is willing to do a little leg work for you. If it was my car, I'd just look at what it would cost to just replace the Oil pan rather than messing around with re-threading or heli-coil. It probably isn't as much as you might think. Probably in the $400 range but it might save you an engine. I doubt you'll convince the quick lube place to pay that bill though.

[r23y 2]

There is only one way to re tap the the threads and that is to pull the oil pan. As you can not stop the shavings from going into the oil pan if it is on the vehicle . If you are going to do that you might as well replace as the oil pan . It should not be that expensive it is the labor that gets you. You can buy a plug from any auto parts that is made out of rubber that expands when you tighten it up. Most mechanics will not let you know about this as it is not very exspensive and the do not recommend. But I have used them before and it will work. Try and take it to a mechanic that you have used before and talk with them .