Jump to content

Car Talk


Recommended Posts

2006 For Explorer. ~60K miles. Wife got the oil changed today and Ford said the radiator is leaking. Without knowing where the leak is (it's apparently not a hose) do you think I need a whole new radiator or can It be patched?If I need a new radiator, how much will it cost, and what should the book hours for labor be?
Is this a V6 or V8? Is it 2wd or 4wd? <<--- This mattersAmazingly, there aren't any junk yards near you on my system. Here is the closest one just for reference. I'm sure they would ship it, if it's a lot cheaper than Autozone or Napa.Depending on your answers to the questions above:2006-7RadiatorFord Explorer NEW AFTERMARKET LIFE TIME WARRNTY $139.75 Bells Auto Parts (Sun-Valley, CA) ---------- 1-888-587-3235 2.7 labor hours. Assume $90-$110/hour to be standard.
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 493
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

$411. The quick lube place is going good for it though. The service manager at the dealership i took it too said this place is their best customer lol, but there always good about fixing their **** up

Pickup trucks are their own category

1) Yes. Your tires could literally fall off while driving down the interstate. Replacing both rod and ball joints seems very plausible on such an old and cheaply manufactured vehicle, like an escort. (You may just want to sell it. It probably can't be worth more than $500)2) Yes. I would have to look up the parts, but I would guess you could get them online for $60-$90. That is a very reasonable overall price.3) Yes. If it's below the wear bead, it's dangerous. If it's dangerous, then the shop could be sued for liability.
Thanks for the answers, though not what I want to hear. Talked to them again - joints start at $35/each, rods at $50. Didn't sound to me like a 3-hour job (~$75/hour labour in my area), but sounds like you agree. Damn.Mainly I'm pissed because the car probably needed $500-1000 when we got it. But my father-in-law knew a guy who did it for $300. Now I need another $1000 worth of work. If I'd known the cheap work was actually cheap work, I'd have paid it back then.Also, it leaks when you fill it up with gas. I was told that is probably a hole in the plastic thing that leads into the tank. Not a huge deal, and expensive to replace. Am I looking at $100-150 for that part? Just wondering if I should get that done if I'm getting the rest taken care of too...though I don't know if I see that happening.Thanks again brvy.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Is this a V6 or V8? Is it 2wd or 4wd? <<--- This mattersAmazingly, there aren't any junk yards near you on my system. Here is the closest one just for reference. I'm sure they would ship it, if it's a lot cheaper than Autozone or Napa.Depending on your answers to the questions above:2006-7RadiatorFord Explorer NEW AFTERMARKET LIFE TIME WARRNTY $139.75 Bells Auto Parts (Sun-Valley, CA) ---------- 1-888-587-3235 2.7 labor hours. Assume $90-$110/hour to be standard.
V6 - 4WDThere are a ton of Junk Yards around me in Rancho Cordova. It's called recycle row.http://local.yahoo.com/info-27024698-ranch...o+Cordova%2C+CA
Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for the answers, though not what I want to hear. Talked to them again - joints start at $35/each, rods at $50. Didn't sound to me like a 3-hour job (~$75/hour labour in my area), but sounds like you agree. Damn.Mainly I'm pissed because the car probably needed $500-1000 when we got it. But my father-in-law knew a guy who did it for $300. Now I need another $1000 worth of work. If I'd known the cheap work was actually cheap work, I'd have paid it back then.Also, it leaks when you fill it up with gas. I was told that is probably a hole in the plastic thing that leads into the tank. Not a huge deal, and expensive to replace. Am I looking at $100-150 for that part? Just wondering if I should get that done if I'm getting the rest taken care of too...though I don't know if I see that happening.Thanks again brvy.
So... it's only leaking gasoline when you are actually filling it or even when it's just sitting in the driveway?
Link to post
Share on other sites
V6 - 4WDThere are a ton of Junk Yards around me in Rancho Cordova. It's called recycle row.http://local.yahoo.com/info-27024698-ranch...o+Cordova%2C+CA
I assumed that there were a bunch around you. I'm surprised to see that they aren't on my system, however.Have you priced out a radiator on your own or through a junk yard yet?Also, do you have any other mechanics that you know that you could get a 2nd opinion on the origination point of the leak?
Link to post
Share on other sites
I assumed that there were a bunch around you. I'm surprised to see that they aren't on my system, however.Have you priced out a radiator on your own or through a junk yard yet?Also, do you have any other mechanics that you know that you could get a 2nd opinion on the origination point of the leak?
I just called them, they have nothing used. But it would be about $100. He said because it's so new they don't get them in very often.He said aftermarket new would be 150-200 and dealer new about $500. I moved away from where my good Mechanic is, but my brother has a guy he is good friends with that does it by job, not hourly for him. So I will probably take it to him. I am guessing it's something I could do myself, but I don't want to risk screwing it up, plus I really don't have the time to do it myself, because you could probably triple that 2.7 hours for me.http://www.automotive.com/yellow-pages/107...dova/index.htmlWe actually probably have one of the biggest recycling/parts/junk yard area on the west coast. You can pretty much get anything here. I almost never buy new parts. But I figured before I started calling around, get an idea of what prices I should be looking at. So thank you.
Link to post
Share on other sites
So... it's only leaking gasoline when you are actually filling it or even when it's just sitting in the driveway?
Pretty much only when its being filled. It'll drip if I'm parked somewhere steep, but not if its just sitting there.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Pretty much only when its being filled. It'll drip if I'm parked somewhere steep, but not if its just sitting there.
Your car is extremely dangerous and you should get rid of it immediately. Alternate: NO BIG DEAL! IT'S BEEN DRIVING FINE FOR A COUPLE MONTHS!ps. I have no idea why the tank is leaking, but you should get the 'plastic part' replaced immediately, if that is the cause.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Your car is extremely dangerous and you should get rid of it immediately. Alternate: NO BIG DEAL! IT'S BEEN DRIVING FINE A COUPLE MONTHS!
i don't see what the big deal is. It's only got a leak in the gas tank.
Link to post
Share on other sites
i don't see what the big deal is. It's only got a leak in the gas tank.
Heh, not the tank, apparently. It was described to me as if there was a large plastic jug-like part that the gas travels through when you're filling it, then goes into the gas tank. It might leak on a hill if the gas flows back into it. Just wanted a second opinion, which is apparently that I'm fine, or will soon be killed.So I bit the bullet, and will be paying $600 for repairs. That is approximately twice what I have available, after bills, to spend for the next month. I love being over my head in debt. What a fun fun party.
Link to post
Share on other sites
I just called them, they have nothing used. But it would be about $100. He said because it's so new they don't get them in very often.He said aftermarket new would be 150-200 and dealer new about $500. I moved away from where my good Mechanic is, but my brother has a guy he is good friends with that does it by job, not hourly for him. So I will probably take it to him. I am guessing it's something I could do myself, but I don't want to risk screwing it up, plus I really don't have the time to do it myself, because you could probably triple that 2.7 hours for me.http://www.automotive.com/yellow-pages/107...dova/index.htmlWe actually probably have one of the biggest recycling/parts/junk yard area on the west coast. You can pretty much get anything here. I almost never buy new parts. But I figured before I started calling around, get an idea of what prices I should be looking at. So thank you.
Man I forgot about those Rancho Cordova parts places. You're right about being able to get just about anything there. Also like that most/all of them are brand specific which makes finding parts faster.If you're interested, I used a guy that is a mobile mechanic, my in-laws still do after 14 years or so. He generally comes and picks up the car and takes it to his place to work on it then brings it back for bigger jobs or will do them at your place for smaller jobs.The guy is incredibally honest, reasonable and stands behind his work.If you're interested let me know and I'll get his number for you.
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Typically, what can be done for a ten-year-old car that develops a short? Years ago, my husband's '84 Nissan developed a habit of turning the headlights on (and, mysteriously, off) by itself. He took care of it that time by getting hit head-on by an asshole in a Volvo running a red light.Now he has a '94 Toyota Tercel. Tonight, the brake lights turned on and stayed on and he came out of work to a dead battery. The only thing that makes them go off is unhooking the battery.He doesn't want to go out looking for another Volvo driver, so what are his options? He's thinking of just installing a battery shut-off switch, figuring neither our usual mechanic nor the dealership will be able to find or fix the problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Typically, what can be done for a ten-year-old car that develops a short? Years ago, my husband's '84 Nissan developed a habit of turning the headlights on (and, mysteriously, off) by itself. He took care of it that time by getting hit head-on by an asshole in a Volvo running a red light.Now he has a '94 Toyota Tercel. Tonight, the brake lights turned on and stayed on and he came out of work to a dead battery. The only thing that makes them go off is unhooking the battery.He doesn't want to go out looking for another Volvo driver, so what are his options? He's thinking of just installing a battery shut-off switch, figuring neither our usual mechanic nor the dealership will be able to find or fix the problem.
Driving with the brake lights on all the time doesn't sound safe.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Typically, what can be done for a ten-year-old car that develops a short? Years ago, my husband's '84 Nissan developed a habit of turning the headlights on (and, mysteriously, off) by itself. He took care of it that time by getting hit head-on by an asshole in a Volvo running a red light.Now he has a '94 Toyota Tercel. Tonight, the brake lights turned on and stayed on and he came out of work to a dead battery. The only thing that makes them go off is unhooking the battery.He doesn't want to go out looking for another Volvo driver, so what are his options? He's thinking of just installing a battery shut-off switch, figuring neither our usual mechanic nor the dealership will be able to find or fix the problem.
Typically, with older vehicles, the wiring simply gets worn out. If you take the vehicle to a shop that specializes in electrical problems, which you should have in the nearest big city, they would be able to fix it, but it will almost certainly involve removing the old wiring completely and running new wire. It won't be cheap. Probably $500+ (Never take electrical issues to the dealer. Dealers and mechanics in general have a terrible time diagnosing electrical issues)One thing to get checked though would be the [i forget the actual name, but it might be brake switch]. There is a part that is behind the pedals/under the dash of every car which basically tells the car that the pedal is being depressed. They go bad quite frequently, and if that is the problem it would be relatively cheap to fix. $100+ (In this case, the dealer or better yet, a cheaper mechanic, should be able to test the part and replace it.)ps. I have a paper due next Friday on Human Sexuality. Will you have time this week to proofread it make my paper better?
Link to post
Share on other sites
Typically, with older vehicles, the wiring simply gets worn out. If you take the vehicle to a shop that specializes in electrical problems, which you should have in the nearest big city, they would be able to fix it, but it will almost certainly involve removing the old wiring completely and running new wire. It won't be cheap. Probably $500+ (Never take electrical issues to the dealer. Dealers and mechanics in general have a terrible time diagnosing electrical issues)One thing to get checked though would be the [i forget the actual name, but it might be brake switch]. There is a part that is behind the pedals/under the dash of every car which basically tells the car that the pedal is being depressed. They go bad quite frequently, and if that is the problem it would be relatively cheap to fix. $100+ (In this case, the dealer or better yet, a cheaper mechanic, should be able to test the part and replace it.)ps. I have a paper due next Friday on Human Sexuality. Will you have time this week to proofread it make my paper better?
He said he figured it was the brake switch but didn't realize it would be that much to fix. He bought a battery kill switch for $15 at Autozone and is installing it now, observing, "when a car's this old, it's probably a good idea to keep the battery and the wiring disconnected when I'm not sitting in it."Thanks for the answer, and yeah, I'll read over a paper if you like. I did the same for LG. Just PM it to me. I like that kind of stuff. Gitcher mind outta the gutter, JLL. :club:
Link to post
Share on other sites
He said he figured it was the brake switch but didn't realize it would be that much to fix. He bought a battery kill switch for $15 at Autozone and is installing it now, observing, "when a car's this old, it's probably a good idea to keep the battery and the wiring disconnected when I'm not sitting in it."Thanks for the answer, and yeah, I'll read over a paper if you like. I did the same for LG. Just PM it to me. I like that kind of stuff. Gitcher mind outta the gutter, JLL. :club:
Note: I was basing the cost on having a shop buy the part and install it. The brake switch from a part store or online is actually fairly cheap.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Note: I was basing the cost on having a shop buy the part and install it. The brake switch from a part store or online is actually fairly cheap.
Yeah, I was mistaken about what he bought. He got the brake switch itself. $15 + about an hour = all better now.
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

I have a 2004 Honda Civic.It has 50k miles and I need to get new brakes.1. Should I get just the front? (I've been told the rear has very little wear.)2. What type of brake pads should I get? - semi metallic or ceramicHow much should it cost?I have a coupon that says $99 for semi metallic$129 for ceramicadditional parts and labor extra. Thanks in advance,Joe

Link to post
Share on other sites

How much do you drive. I had this discussion with my mom recently. She drives 2 miles to work and back. Maybe a few short trips here and there. 8 miles to my house twice a month. She got talked into spending $40 more for ceramic. If you are not in the mountains and you don't drive more than say 25 miles a day, I say save your money and get good old regular brake pads.

Link to post
Share on other sites
How much do you drive. I had this discussion with my mom recently. She drives 2 miles to work and back. Maybe a few short trips here and there. 8 miles to my house twice a month. She got talked into spending $40 more for ceramic. If you are not in the mountains and you don't drive more than say 25 miles a day, I say save your money and get good old regular brake pads.
save even more money and get a bike.
Link to post
Share on other sites
headlight bulb - outbuy bulbstill outcheck fusesall goodnow? other than me going to jiffy lube before work tomorrow
Do this. Electrical issues can be weird, and Jiffy Lube might locate the problem immediately. Plus: it will be cheap.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Announcements


×
×
  • Create New...