Where Should My Ptracker Numbers Be At?

[TheCincinnatiKid 0]

I was wondering where my stats should be for the low limit NLH 6 maxI usually play 5/10c ; 10/25c ; 25/50c ; and 50c/1$ (usually 6 max) Voluntary put $ in pot? total aggression postflop? Preflop raise? Continuation Bet? I was wondering where these numbers should be on a 6 max table. Also I was wondering if these are good stats to be looking at? What others would anybody recommend paying attention to? I also tend to put the (player) net $ won stat up as well.

[No_Neck 0]

I was wondering where my stats should be for the low limit NLH 6 maxI usually play 5/10c ; 10/25c ; 25/50c ; and 50c/1$ (usually 6 max) Voluntary put $ in pot? total aggression postflop? Preflop raise? Continuation Bet? I was wondering where these numbers should be on a 6 max table. Also I was wondering if these are good stats to be looking at? What others would anybody recommend paying attention to? I also tend to put the (player) net $ won stat up as well.

28ish/ 3ish/17ish/ i dunno i do it a LOT

[delasoul 0]

28ish/ 3ish/17ish/ i dunno i do it a LOT

depends on if your on tilt or not

[IBFT 0]

I, too, would be interested in knowing how to use PT numbers to better my game... I already filter my hands by hand type (pairs, suited, connectors, etc...) to determine on what specific hands I'm winning and losing mobney with, but I'd be interested to know what the numbers can tell me about leaks and what not. I've read the post in general strat by jayson weber (someone tell me what happened to him, did he pull a dutch boyd or something?) but I think its based on limit numbers, right? So anyhow, could we make this into a general PT thread for NLHE, or is that against the general want of the forum? Should i post my measurements?

[krup24 0]

if anybody is really good with these and would like to offer me some help please PM me and i'll give u my AIM cause i could really use some help. i play 6 max NL.

[ROBBBIGG 0]

I just finished a table playing very good poker and ended up at: 16/11/2 and I c-bet anytime I raised preflop and get a good flop texture for me.

[simo_8ball 0]

A 6maxNL Guide To PokerTracker.VPIP can range all the way from 12 to about 30.PFR can range from 8 to about 25Because of how wide this is, looking at them in isolation is pointless.A standard "2+2 TAG" will generally play with stats between about 15/12 and 20/18. Some play 20/14, others play 18/17. It can vary quite a bit. If your PFR is lower than about 60% of your VPIP you really aren't aggro enough. You are probably watching Negreanu, Gavin Smith and others on TV call in position and outplay people postflop. Forget that. Seriously. I'm not going to start justifying it because this is about PT, just trust me. If you call raises with 74s/QTo/A7s you will lose money. Quickly. This is the problem that most tournament players have when they first start playing cash. They play too passive.As an experiment I feel it can be very useful to play a session (possibly at lower limits) where you do not allow yourself to call preflop (raise, 3-bet or fold). When you start looking down at K8s against a mid position raise and have to 3-bet or fold, it really forces you to think about the value of your hand against his range. It will tighten you up from the blinds, and should get you opening up better in position. 3-betting a CO open from the button with a hand like 89s is a very decent play, but calling with K8s isn't.Some nits are profitable playing a 12/8 style in weak games, but that really is the very lowest you can be. In the same way, some LAG 30/25 players are profitable but anything above that is virtually impossible to show a profit. If you're trying to get into cash games I suggest trying to get your stats to look something like 16/13, which is tight (pretty nitty), but solid. Work your way up when you are comfortable playing a solid TAG style. Don't try to run before you can crawl.Ok, to see how positionally aware you are, look in PT under the positions tab. You should see VPIP and PFR falling as you move away from the button. This means you play a lot looser and more aggro from the button than from UTG. At 6max if your button VPIP and PFR are at least 50% higher than UTG then you're doing good. My button stats are ~32/28, and UTG I'm ~19/19. Overall I converge to about a 24/21 style.For a TAG, I think you should be ~11/11 UTG and somewhere around 18/15 on the button. That's just a guess though, so don't treat it as gospel. You should have a reasonable idea of what to look for though.Right, that's VPIP and PFR dealt with to some extent.The next stat you see most often is aggression factor, or 'AF'. This is taken to be total postflop aggression, so make sure the "include preflop numbers in total AF" box isn't checked in PT. There's not a whole lot you can say about AF, other than you want it to be above 2, below about 4 and should be higher on the flop than on the turn and river. Most good players have it decreasing from turn to river, but there are other successful players whose river AF is higher than their turn AF. If your AF dips significantly on the turn and jumps back up on the river this means you are not firing second barrels enough, and you are opting for either free cards or pot control too often. In situations where, say, you c/bet TT or A9 on a Q96cc board, don't check back on a blank turn, keep betting. This is a major leak in many players games, and it is identifiable in PT. Fire second barrels with AK on boards like 8532 when called on the flop. Identify these areas to keep up your aggression on the turn. It's more profitable to bet the turn and check the river with a weak made hand than to check the turn and call the river.Here is a great post analysing the relationship between aggression factor and VPIP:http://archives1.twoplustwo.com/showflat.p...=0#Post11853136This is why it's difficult to analyse the stat on its own. It is highly dependent on the shape of the rest of your game.Suppose someone only ever plays AA or KK. Their AF will be massive, because they always have a hand they want to bet and raise with. They won't want to call.Suppose someone plays every single hand. In order to get a similar AF to the nit above, they will have to bet and raise with very weak hands. So, someone with an AF of 1 and a VPIP of 60 is aggressive (they are betting a lot of weak hands and draws), whereas someone with a VPIP of 5 and AF of 3 is pretty passive (they must be calling and slowplaying some big hands postflop rather than raising them).Ok, your steal blinds % (ATSB) is a stat that shows how often you raise when it is folded to you in CO or BTN. This of course is basically a function of VPIP, PFR and position. My ATSB is about 33% (I actually want that to increase to over 35%), but for most TAGs it should be at least 20%. I think about 30% is healthy for most. As long as it's not too low you should be fine.If your Won $ at Showdown (W$SD) is above about 56% you are probably playing too weak. You aren't betting strongly enough, and you are likely folding too many winners.Conversely, if it's below ~43% you are paying off too much and are bluffing to much. These aren't perfect figures, but they should be good enough to give you an idea of what to look for in terms of immediate problems.W$WSF should be higher than 40. If it isn't you're folding too much. Play more aggro, and make looser calldowns and bluffs. The best aggressive players often have this stat >50%. This will generally make the W$SD drop a touch (because they are bluffing and semibluffing more).WtSD should be somewhere 20-29ish. If it's outside this range then you probably have a leak. I general if it's low you are being bluffed off the best hand too often, if it's high you are paying off too much. VPIP factors into this, but in general outside 20-29 and you probably have a leak.The relationships between VPIP/PFR, W$WSF, WtSD and W$SD are pretty complex, and not worth going into detail in a short guide. They all intertwine and different players can have different stats for each while still being profitable. As long as they are inside the normal boundaries they are minor stats not really worth worrying about too much.That's most of what you need to look for in PT to assess your game at surface value.What you can do from here is use the filters on the General Info tab. Filter pairs and see how you do with them. Filter suited connectors. Filter for pots where there were 3-10 players on the flop. That shows how well you play multiway. Filter for "chance to steal and raised" to see how profitable your steals are. This is where you can spot the less obvious leaks. See how you do when you call preflop. See how you deal with small pairs when you open raise. Use filters for everything and find where you make and lose money. I recommend using PokerEV too, because the filters on that are awesome for overall game analysis, as you can sort for how profitably you play straight draws and flush draws as well as other hands. You can filter for flops where you have top pair or better, or hands where you've c/bet with air.Ok, finally:http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/69/micro...d-redux-232833/Here you will find a lot of players who have submitted their PT stats for analysis. Glance through some pages, look at some winning players stats, look at some losing players stats. See where the differences are. Compare them with your own. Post your own stats there (or here) and get feedback if you like.(I am unfamiliar with the new 3-bet stats in PT3 and how to interpret them, so I will leave this as simply a PT2 guide.)Hope this helps.