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10 handed vs. 6 handed low limit hold'em


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I play mostly 10 handed .25/.50 limit tables. I have tried the shorthanded 6 handed games and I will usually do well, but sometimes I end up losing chasing things I thought were good, or trying things I don't do in 10 handed much. Anyone have constructive advice about starting hand requirements, deception, etc. for 6 handed low Limit Hold'em? Akishore, if you are out there, your type of advice is greatly appreciated (or anyone else with a good solid response). Do you loosen or tighten your starting hand requirements?One thing I have trouble with is that it seems that deception is easier with only 6 players. Is this a good assumption to make? Sometimes I will semi-bluff or bluff, when I would almost never do that at a 10 handed table. Its harder to call down hands with only 6 players since even fish can see the obvious basic pot odds aren't there. I don't really want to discuss the amount of money you can make 10 vs 6 since that is a dead horse beat to death on other posts. I just want to learn how to play better shorthanded. Thanks for all your help.

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most important concept- 6 handed is shorter handed but not shorthanded. It is still signficantly differnt from 3 handed. Dont get much looser preflop but get much more aggressive. a hand like a 9 is ordianry 10 handed but is more than useful 6 handed. i layed heaps of 1/2 on stars, im tired now but ill try and post something more substantial tomorow.

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My general guideline for 6-handed is basically play like you would play if it was a full game, just with nobody in the three or four seats to the left of the blind. What I mean is, if I'm under the gun, I'll play just a little more tightly than I would if I were, say, in middle position when everyone folded to me. You'll probably need a little less to win then you expect, because many fewer good hands get dealt in a 6 handed game over a 10 handed game, especially if you feel like your opponents are loosening their standards.

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most important concept- 6 handed is shorter handed but not shorthanded. It is still signficantly differnt from 3 handed. Dont get much looser preflop but get much more aggressive. a hand like a 9 is ordianry 10 handed but is more than useful 6 handed. i layed heaps of 1/2 on stars, im tired now but ill try and post something more substantial tomorow.
Quick! Change the site you play at. You are supposed to get 2 cards! :shock:
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most important concept- 6 handed is shorter handed but not shorthanded. It is still signficantly differnt from 3 handed. Dont get much looser preflop but get much more aggressive. a hand like a 9 is ordianry 10 handed but is more than useful 6 handed. i layed heaps of 1/2 on stars, im tired now but ill try and post something more substantial tomorow.
Quick! Change the site you play at. You are supposed to get 2 cards! :shock:
i believe the 'a' should have been capitalized. as in, 'A' for Ace.
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Ive been making way too much money playing 5/10 6handed at party...The obvious is that hand strength is a large factor, but what I think is the most important factor is being able to really outplay your opponents.Although you will be in blinds much more frequently, especially if someone is sitting out, the skill factor plays a huge roll in it once you'r ein the hand. For some reason, 5/10 at party seems like a bunch of snobs that don't really know what their doing. However, since it is in the middle-ish limits, they don't chase all the time and a lot of pots are took down on the flop.Also, raising pre-flop with good cards in the higher limits, and shorter tables is what wins in the long run.

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Ive been making way too much money playing 5/10 6handed at party...The obvious is that hand strength is a large factor, but what I think is the most important factor is being able to really outplay your opponents.Although you will be in blinds much more frequently, especially if someone is sitting out, the skill factor plays a huge roll in it once you'r ein the hand. For some reason, 5/10 at party seems like a bunch of snobs that don't really know what their doing. However, since it is in the middle-ish limits, they don't chase all the time and a lot of pots are took down on the flop.Also, raising pre-flop with good cards in the higher limits, and shorter tables is what wins in the long run.
ohhhhhh, im supposed to raise with GOOD cards.
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Ive been making way too much money playing 5/10 6handed at party...The obvious is that hand strength is a large factor, but what I think is the most important factor is being able to really outplay your opponents.Although you will be in blinds much more frequently, especially if someone is sitting out, the skill factor plays a huge roll in it once you'r ein the hand. For some reason, 5/10 at party seems like a bunch of snobs that don't really know what their doing. However, since it is in the middle-ish limits, they don't chase all the time and a lot of pots are took down on the flop.Also, raising pre-flop with good cards in the higher limits, and shorter tables is what wins in the long run.
ohhhhhh, im supposed to raise with GOOD cards.
I wanted to say decent- good cards meaning, K10 suited, A9 suited etc are definitely raiseable. Plus, how many people here advocate not raising pre flop? there's been tons of posts about that.
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Eh, SSHE points out that 6-handed, there really is no Early position, just middle and Late. This makes sense as a guideline for what to do on a lot of hands, makes some hands playable like little pairs, and leads to more raising also

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So, if early is eliminated, you can play many more hands. I have been doing this, but probably too much. Does it also mean that you should play marginal hands at a full table a little stronger with 6? What do you do with: K10, AJ, QJ, suited connectors? I have a chart of Slansky's SSHE and I guess I should use that as a guide, just eliminate the Early position. Again, thanks for your help.

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So, if early is eliminated, you can play many more hands. I have been doing this, but probably too much. Does it also mean that you should play marginal hands at a full table a little stronger with 6? What do you do with: K10, AJ, QJ, suited connectors? I have a chart of Slansky's SSHE and I guess I should use that as a guide, just eliminate the Early position. Again, thanks for your help.
raise, raise, raise, and limp in CO or button with limpers behind, otherwise fold.
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What do you do with: K10, AJ, QJ, suited connectors? I have a chart of Slansky's SSHE and I guess I should use that as a guide, just eliminate the Early position. Again, thanks for your help.raise, raise, raise, and limp in CO or button with limpers behind, otherwise fold.
So it looks like striking out some of the "C"s on my chart and putting in a R is a good idea. Maybe I will do some work on it and post it up here.
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Raise with any ace from the CO or button if it is folded around to you- heaps of people call with anything from the blinds and ou are bound to pick up heaps of extra bets with your ace high when they chase rubbish with their equally poor psotflop play. and yes a9 = A9

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