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Vman96

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Posts posted by Vman96

  1. Definitely tighten up. I don't have PT stats...but I probably only see 30% of the flops or so. Being tight preflop is where a LOT of my profit comes from. If I have to guess...I am the tightest player at the table usually.Basically I just see big pairs: AA, KK, QQ, JJ (in multiway pots)Three+ Broadways usuallyNut flush draws with connected cardsHands I do NOT play for a full bet.4567, 6678...etc.These are pretty much trash in limit....you will more often than not get outdrawn by stronger hands, and you don't get the implied odds/ability to protect your hand like you can in PLO. High ranks and pairs are more important than anything, especially an ace....which can help give you trips with top kicker...people with lower kickers will always call you down. And as for post flop play you usually want to have or be drawing to the nuts in a full-ring game as much as possible.

  2. When I saw the flop, all I could think was "wrap-around straight draw." It didn't even cross my mind that most of my outs created a low.
    Yeah, but if youre heads up with the guy...It's going to be tough for him to hold both ends if you think he has a set. If he does then I stick my money in with the worst of it I guess. At least you made the right decision after his push.
  3. I have had some brutal swings in LO8 before...but I still would think 200 BB is sufficient. Even 150 BB is okay if youre willing to move down if necessary. The standard deviation is usually a lot less than LHE due to split pots. As for PLO8...if you play a fairly conservative style...10 buyins would probably be alright....15 would be plenty, I'd think. But then again...I haven't lost consecutive buy-ins in PLO8 in months...lol

  4. If you put him on the naked set here...which is definitely possible at these limits. You should jam here as long as you are heads up. The only way you are behind is if he has KK and a better low....and a lot of people will limp with any KK to hit a set. I even limp with KK quite a bit. I don't like the preflop call....not even sure about the flop raise....but after the reraise...it is a good opportunity to gamble here, I think.

  5. PokerStars 0.05/0.10 Omaha/8 (6 handed) FTR converter on zerodivide.cxPreflop: Hero is SB with [Kc], [Ts], [7s], [Ad]. 2 folds, CO calls, Button calls, Hero completes, BB checks.Flop: (4 SB) [Qd], [4s], [Jh] (4 players)Hero checks, BB checks, CO checks, Button bets, Hero calls, BB calls, CO calls.Turn: (4 BB) [Th] (4 players)Hero checks, BB checks, CO checks, Button bets, Hero raises, BB calls, CO calls, Button calls.River: (12 BB) [7h] (4 players)Hero checks, BB checks, CO checks, Button checks.Final Pot: 12 BBHow do you play this flop? I've played some O8 but not a whole lot, still learning how to play certain hands. I thought this one was intereseting.
    The complete preflop is a little loose...but I probably make it too.The flop is a really good one for you since there is a rainbow and you have the wrap draw. I probably lead out here and call a button raise. (the way button is playing it looks like he has qq here). With this route, I would be leading out on the turn again as well. And of course check the river, and fold/call depending on opponent....or how tilted I was. I hardly ever c/r in O8....usually backfires on me.However, the way you played it wasn't too bad. Especially c/r'ing the button....could have possibly drove out flush draws if this was higher limits...(it obviously didn't drive anyone out here)
  6. Yeah...I don't think anybody is going to say 100 live hours is enuf.But you made me think...it's probably more necessary to play more hands in NL to figure things out than in limit. My reply was based on limit (since that's what I specialize in) so take that into consideration if you're a NL player.
    Youre absolutely right. You will need a lot larger sample for NL....where standard deviations for online play at least are often 70-80 bb/100 (35-40 BB/100)....where in limit they usually are 15-20 BB/100.
  7. On another forum recently, I responded to a NL online player that was playing $2/$4 NL and over 36,000 hands had won $11k. (which is about 8bb/100 at $2/$4) He was wondering if this was a long enough sample to convince him that he was a profitable player. Using some ball-park numbers for variance...even after 36k hands, there was still a 3.5% chance he was truly a break-even player or worse. And about a 20% chance that he is truly only a 4bb/100 player or worse (The minimum I would want to make at 2/4 NL if it is to become my "career"). So even after 36,000 hands...It was quite likely that he is a winning player, but it isn't guaranteed. And since 36,000 hands is 1000 hours live....I definitely believe you don't have a big enough sample yet.

  8. I think you played the hand in question fine...especially since you had counterfeit protection....the only thing you really have to worry about is one of the bigger stacks having a2....and looking at your read (previous hands you showed)....i wouldn't count on them having it. Although I haven't commented much....I do enjoy reading these. Keep up the good work.

  9. I play limit omaha from time to time.(Tonight I went 137 hands in a row without winning a pot! UGH!)But in general...I'll compete my SB if there are 3 cards with decent connectivity....or if there is a middle or high pair.If the hand is still complete trash, I have no problem with mucking for 0.5 bets. EVEN IF I am getting 13 or 15 to 1. Some hands are so bad in limit omaha, you won't get a favorable flop more than 5% of the time.

  10. Your hand looks great, but the only drawback is that is only has high potential. If you don't hit, the best that you'll get is half the pot. You're an equity dog if your opponent holds A3xx believe it or not because he most certainly have you outkicked for high. However if your opponent does not...you're definitely an equity favorite as now you'll freeroll to the high. The probability of him being dealt A3 will be less than 6.4% since you hold A3 as well. With this in mind...I don't have a problem with you re-potting it. If he has A3, that's bad luck and you'll have to depend on your numerous outs.

  11. Calling this flop is weak, you should either fold or raise to go HU with SB.In your case when you just called the flop, I think calling the turn is better and hope for a flush or counterfeiting others low.
    I agree. You more than likely have half locked up if you get it heads up. If you leave it multiway...it's going to lead to trouble.
  12. Preflop is very light. You should only play this if you think you can outplay the table. I play similar limits at prima and have experimented with the dry-ace bluff a bit...has failed so far. Not even sure if i like the $12 call after he pushes....he probably has a weak flush here and you are drawing dead...he would be stupid to push you in without a flush (he probably has J high flush or something). Hopefully, by some miracle you won this hand.

  13. I have thought about this hand quite a bit and I think it is a GREAT fold.:clap: A real rock usually only re-raises pre-flop with AA, KK, or QQ.  We cannot beat any of these hands.That said, let's not "just call" here with KK OOP.  I would not re-raise all-in as stated, but I would put in a sizable re-raise.  I'd probably make it $50-$60 to go.
    I think this is right. He definitely would have re-raised allin preflop had you raised to $50 or $60 and you could fold. I couldn't, but hypothetically you could have...
    I agree with this line. Re-pop it to $50 or so prf. And if he pushes all-in....You possibly could muck here. He probably isn't pushing here with worse than KK.On the flop, I don't mind this fold since you just called. That min-raise scares me...it says, "I can beat TP and I want you to call"I would like to say that I don't jam my whole stack in here with this hand....but I bet I would. :evil:
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