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MrConceit

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Posts posted by MrConceit

  1. *SNIP*Once again ill go with howards take on GAME SELECTION WHICH IS A KEY TO WININNG IN POKER!!!! Read greensteins website where he puts gus' key weakness as TRYING to play in the big game against the best in the world while being clearly outclassed.
    YOU read Greenstein's website. Gus gets higher marks than 60-75 percent of the people he talks about. As an all-around, not just NL tourneys.http://www.barrygreenstein.com/ghansen.htmCompare that to the various others he talks about on the left.Only a few people are given as obiously better than Gus. Perhaps Ivey, Negreanu, Reese, Brunson.His lowest rating is steam control - a 5. And take this in the context that he's been playing high end for 2-3 years tops. Give the man a break.
  2. R u serious this is supposed to be a good forum----NL is the only real poker.  Or high limit poker .50 -1.00 is a bnout hitting your draws.  Agreed a lot of bad players on NL that will call big money to hith their draws .  Make them pay to seee it not .50.   The only point i agree with is the real life point.  IN the real world it's alot different then computer.  But even top pros will tell you the .50-1.00 holdem is not poker.  It's for giggles.
    This is too ridiculous and funny. R u f0r r3al man? Saying any one type of poker is the only real poker is only about the stupidest thing ever. And that isn't even addressing your other foolish contentions. Oh laugh, why am I even bothering, others have addressed this for the most part, but I guess I'll finish.The amount you're playing for (as long as it's real money) makes no difference. If everybody calls with poor pot odds or improbable draws not getting correct odds -- you make money. Regardless of whether they suck out that single time or not. If they don't take it seriously because it's small money to them, GREAT! Then you'll take their money even easier. NL is the easiest thing in the world to beat if you're playing vs bad opponents. Until the TV explosion NL cash games had just about died out because the fish so rarely won. You need the fish to be able to have lucky days (unless you have some explosion of new people because of external reasons) or the games will dry up. And paying .50 cents into a 2.50 dollar pot on a gutshot that hits 1 out of 10.75 times is a losing proposition, the same as paying 100 dollars into a 500 dollar pot. I understand you can't raise people out on legit draws and/or semi-bluff as well in low limit. That does not make it fake-poker. Also, in games like this you play your draws AGGRESSIVELY, draws are king, not made hands of 1 pair (if you're on a table of 7 seeing the flop and playing too far). Oh well enough.Get a clue.
  3. there is no prior card....it's preflopbut I see what you mean about 77 hitting a set and a straight or whatever
    Oh, I know there's no prior card. The thing is the "prior card" I was meaning was the first card of the flop, vs the second card of the flop, and so on and so forth.It's like for figuring a flush draw over two cards you do 9/47+(9/46*38/47) which gives you 35 percent.The reason you do that is because you have to multiply hitting on the river by the times you missed on the turn. Do you see what I mean?So a way to calculate (oversimplified, but getting close) whether you'd hit a set by the river is:2/50+2/49*48/50+2/48*47/49+2/47*46/48+2/46*45/47Now before you go WHAT THE HELL it's so long, all that it is doing is taking 2 cards of the 50 remaining, adding it to the 2 cards of the 49 remaining TIMES the likelyhood you missed on the first card which is 48/50. And you just do that through all 5 cards. This gives you 20 percent.And to do a similar thing for AJo hitting an ace or jack by river would be:6/50+6/49*44/50+6/48*43/49+6/47*42/48+6/46*41/47which gives you 56 percent.The thing with this is it ignores doing better than just hitting a single time. And it ignores things like straights and lots of other stuff. I'm just trying to give you an idea of how you'd have to figure. That's why I suggest doing a thing like twodimes for an allin preflop situation.Normal figuring of hitting on the turn is easier because you're usually figuring odds that will give you a draw that will likely win, and nothing else.Also, there is very likely an easier way to figure this stuff out -- but I don't know how. :D
  4. Bare with me, i've had a little to drink...Formula: (x/y)-1=zx=unknown cardsy=number of outsz=oddsSay you have AJ against 77.3 aces and 3 jacks make 6 outs.5 cards to come so you do 6x5=3047/30=1.57.....hmmmm I think Im giving you bad advice.lol.My advice would say you are a .57-1 to win.  Which makes you a favorite which is obviously wrong. Someone else take over.  :?  :-)  PS. That formula is correct for pot odds...but the rest I was just guessing.
    Yeah I think your problem is you're not taking into account the possibility of having hit an A or J on the prior card, you can't just multiple times 5 (for cards). Plus you're not taking into account at all of the 77 hitting a set (or much less likely a straight).
  5. oh ok, thanks for that, that will help a lot dealing with all ins pre flop and whatnot, I just have to make sure I'm getting this, so you take your number of "outs", if you have AJ, then you have Aces and Jacks, for 8 outs, you just multiply that by 5(community cards), then take the total unseen cards and divide by that number?  the only thing I don't understand is how you from from 4.7 to 3.7 in your example...sorry if I'm being a little bothersome
    You're not being bothersome. But just figuring the obvious outs isn't that exact for this kinda thing. If you just want to know how various hands stand up vs each other allin preflop then check something like twodimes or a similar calculator.In the example WRT gave you, when he calculated that it was 10/47 then you can look at it like 37:10 (the other cards that don't make your hand of the 47) which is 3.7:1 (against). But again, trying to do this kind of method for 87 of hearts vs black aces would be rather difficult. If you just want to know the odds of X hand beating Y hand, go to http://www.twodimes.net/poker/ or a similar site.If this is preflop you just have to enter the hands in, on twodimes you would do it for AcAs vs Th9h as ac as (enter) th 9h and click submit query. You can also do it at any point in the hand by entering a board in.Even just calculating the odds of hitting a set by the river (correctly) isn't that easy for most people. People usually just memorize odds like 7.5 :1 against getting a set (or better) on the flop.Oh, and I just reread your AJ thing, you'd only have 6 outs not 8, you have 1 of each in your hand. And that would only help you if you knew the J was good (like against 8s8c), and also doesn't take into account having hit your cards along the way while figuring the next card, or take into account him hitting something. I suggest playing with a calculator for various hands if you want to get an idea. You can calculate the exact occurance of various things happening, but you don't always know if doing so would win.
  6. There are multiple ways to figure this out, just like most math questions. :)Possibly the easiest is jogsxyz's method of doing it backwards.Another way is Abbaddabba's which certainly works, but to me seems complicated.I prefer my 3rd way.To explain it in words first, you do first the obvious 15/47 you have to hit on turn, then you add that to your chance of hitting on the river TIMES your chance of having missed on the turn.In math it is:15/47+15/46*32/47 which is 54 percent.For flush draws it works the same to get you the correct answer of 35 percent.9/47+9/46*38/47I didn't bother putting in ( ) since order of operation makes it obvious here. :)And sadly yeah, it's not as simple as you'd first assume it to be. Though once you get used to doing this kind of stuff, it does become not too hard. You just have to get the method down, whichever method you choose to use that is.[Edit]Oh laugh, I'm an idiot. Before you mock me Abbaddabba, I did just realize I'm just saying the exact same thing you are. Though I did think you made it sound more complicated than it has to sound! But when I reread yours - I'm just repeating you. SORRY!

  7. You win the overall award for quality and speed of beatage. You got smacked. I especially like your final paragraph.Glad you could still mix it up at the end, very nice. You want people to make bad calls, obviously, but that kinda crap all at once just kicks the sh1t out of you.*shiver*

  8. IMOSame as before. Game conditions are loose, low limits.For all questions, rank your options among fold, call(check), or raise.1) You hold K :) J :)  in the small blind. Three players limp and you raise. The big blind and all the limpers call. (10sb pot)Flop: T :D 9 :) 3 :)  Action is on you.  Check/call2) You hold 9 :D 9 :) . UTG+1 raises, one cold caller, and you three bet from the button. The blinds fold and UTG+1 calls as does the cold caller. (10.5sb pot)Flop: Q :D 8 :) 2 :)  UTG+1 checks, Cold caller bets, action is on you.Raise. call if re-raised, and fold the turn UI. bet the turn if he just calls your raise.3) You hold A :) T :)  in the big blind. 3 players limp, button raises, small blind calls, and you and all the limpers call. (12sb pot)Flop: K :D T :)  5  :club:  Small blind checks and the action is on you.bet/raise/re-raise/cap/all in...good hand here.4) You hold K :) T :D  and limp from UTG+1. UTG+2 raises, and 3 players call including the big blind. You call. (10sb pot)Flop: 3 :D 9 :) Q :D  big blind checks, action is to you.check/raise5) You hold K :D K :)  in mp2. UTG+1 limps, mp1 raises, you re-raise, the big blind calls, UTG+1 calls as does mp1. (12sb pot)Flop: A :) 8 :) 6 :D  BB checks, UTG+1 checks, mp1 checks. Action is to you.Bet. If called and the turn is a blank (e.g. no diamond or K) I check...if the turn is a diamond, I continue betting.6) You hold 8 :) 7 :)  in the Cut off. UTG limps, UTG+1 limps, mp1 limps, mp2 limps, you limp, button limps, small blind completes, bb checks. (8sb pot)Flop: A :) T :) 5 :)  It's checked to UTG who bets, UTG+1 calls, mp1 calls, mp2 calls. Action is to you.Riase.
    I agree with all of your decisions except 2. To me it's just far too likely that Mr. Coldcaller has KQ suited. That's such the standard coldcall hand. Just the combo of you possibly being behind and you not having the 9h in your hand just seems so ugly to me. I utterly understand trying to get rid of UTG+1 in case he has AK, but I don't like this spot.Yay, now I don't have to write my answers. You did all the work to your own questions.
  9. 5) You hold K :)   K :club:   in mp2. UTG+1 limps, mp1 raises, you re-raise, the big blind calls, UTG+1 calls as does mp1. (12sb pot)  Flop: A  :D  8  :)  6 :)    BB checks, UTG+1 checks, mp1 checks. Action is to you.  Bet. Flop aggresion is key as you showed it preflop. You have a backdoor nut flush draw, and it is possible to rule out anyone else having a flush draw as they more than likely would've bet it. You might be checkraised, but really if anyone would've had a srong A like AK or AA the pot would've been capped. You very well might have the best hand here and allowing a free card could very well give someone two pair or a lower pocket pair a set. The Pot is big so you need to protect your hand. If you get raised don't be afraid to three bet, fold equity can be very high in this situation as someone with  AJ could very well put you on AK because of the preflop three bet
    Betting here is obligatory, I agree with that. But I'm not so sure of your claim that any AKo would have capped preflop. I don't always. If I raise with AKo and am 3bet I tend to give them a bit of credit for having a solid PP and often don't cap preflop. If there are a lot of other people still in that have limped/coldcalled THEN I almost always cap because I figure I'll be winning more than my fair share, but HU or vs 2 people? Not so much.If you're checkraised on the flop, you then 3bet? To prove what? Your manly inability to lay down KK vs an ace pair? I mean if you have some read on the guy checkraising/betting draws aggressive then go for it. But in general? When DO you lay down KK when an ace flops (and somebody else had raised preflop)? I'm always very happy when QQ/KK call my ace pair to the river. It's very pleasant.I agree you bet on the flop when checked to 100 percent, but if you're checkraised you're really in pain. And if you manage to convince AJ that you have AK, he usually folds? All you do is get him to check-call in my experience. Do YOU fold AJ after you flop an ace because you're afraid another aggressive guy has AK? Or do you stop being as aggressive, call down, and hope not?
  10. correct me if i am wrong but dont they have to pay like 40% tax on their tournament winnings. If i am correct then there is no way in hell daniel made 10mil from poker alone last year. He hasnt posted much of his sessions from the big game but i dont think he made over a million in just the cash game alone. With so many good players in that game i think the players who are really on their game consistently win by a small margin...i dont think their is extremely huge swings.
    Hah, that does seem to be one advantage cash game players have over tourney players. Obviously if poker is their only income they have to be reporting something, but what exactly they report is the question.Also, as a question of my own: If someone is (for example) a Canadian citizen but flies out to Vegas a lot, what is their tax situation? Or a Canadian/UK citizen living short-term in Vegas, what is the tax situation? I'm curious.
  11. Also, I try to have the funniest avatar on the site. However I think that the "kitten/gun" combo has overtaken me. The sign text on my avatar says "Ninjas killed my family, need money for kung fu lessons". I must retake the funniest avatar award.
    OH, that's what your avatar is. I saw that pic a while ago online (a friend told me to check it out) and it was amazingly hilarious. But I couldn't tell that your avatar was that pic. Until you pointed it out I couldn't read the sign.
  12. I agree that play money is not a very good way to improve and that is not the best way to gauge your game; I did not disagree with this. I disagreed with allin's point that play money is less like real poker than .05/.10 poker is. I think that these super low limit games are just as bad as playing for play money. There are just as many fish and recreational players.
    They're basically right dude. Your point that .05./10 isn't totally real poker has _some_ small validity in how it plays. But it's still 10-20 times what play money tables are. And fish and recreational players are a ton of what poker is about. That's what you want to play with anyway. .05./.10 teaches you to play in uber-loose/passive tables. You could try to say the same thing with play money, but the people don't just call trying to hit their garbage draws, they raise and cap because that's action play and they're having fun.
  13. 7. 6 limpers to you in the BB, you hold T :) T :Draise - gwt rid of a few limpers
    I agree with most of your answers, and do agree that raising is good and probably best here. What I question is that it will "get rid of a few limpers". When does a single raise ever make someone who limped fold? Somebody else said something similar and acted like they SHOULD fold. It's rarely correct to limp and fold to 1 more bet. Do you do it? Do you see your opponents do it?
  14. [Edit]My apologies. I didn't read the farther down post saying this was specifically for loose-passive LL tables. I included some options based on loose/passive, and I'm not gonna rewrite the whole thing. Feel free to skip my entire post if you want. :)For all questions, rank your options among fold, call(check), or raise.1. you're UTG and you hold 3 :) 3 :) - Fold unless you're on a loose passive table, then call. Never raise here.2. 3 limpers to you in CO, you hold Q :) T :) - This is close between calling and raising. I think calling is slightly better imo. Folding this is horrid (I assume the people who said to do that didn't see it was suited).3. folded to you in MP3, you hold A :D 7 :) - If table is tight (and/or blinds don't defend like crazy) then raise. Otherwise, imo it's close between calling and folding. A7 suited is useful because it's suited, the kicker is trash, so since nobody has limped it's close between limp/fold.4. 1 limper to you in MP2, you hold 8 :D 8 :) - Raise, but it's close. Limp if the table is loose and passive and you think some will play after you. Any smaller and it's fine to fold. 88 is just about where I'd say not to fold here.5. 4 limpers to you on the Button, you hold A :) T :D - Limp. I think raising vs 4 limpers isn't that great. It's not horrible either, I just think ATo isn't that amazing vs 4 limpers. Plus some people limp AJo in early. I do myself half the time.6. 3 limpers, Button raises, you're in the BB with A :) T :D - I think this is close between raise and call. Raising is good _IF_ the limpers will fold to 2 cold since you assume you're better than the button who raised with position. I personally like flat calling more since you have a great multi-way hand (and so many people _don't_ fold 2 cold once they limped, so shrug). Folding is stupid.7. 6 limpers to you in the BB, you hold T :) T :) - I think this is an easy raise. This is almost an easy raise with ANY PP because you're almost getting pure odds on your raise to hit a set (and definitely are with implied). TT is also high enough to add a bit of equity regardless if you flop all babies. Although realize your raising will make it more correct for people to chase with 2 overcards to the river. So if you are playing with people who play by correct pot odds not raising makes it more likely for you to win if you get a 9 high flop (in terms of overcards calling to river).8. UTG+1 raises, 1 cold-caller to you on the button with 9 :club: 9 :D - Because of the cold-caller raising has nearly zero point. I guess it will more likely get the blinds out, but you will be going at least 3handed to the flop here anyway. I guess cold-call and see the flop. I don't feel there is a glaringly correct thing here. I don't even feel folding would be HORRIBLE. A lot depends on your "read" or stats you have on UTG+1 and how often he raises. 9. loose MP3 limps, rest fold to you on the button with 6 :D 6 :D - This depends on 2 things. Are the blinds tight or defend like crazy? And second is MP3 the kind of person who will (after you raise) fold the flop if he doesn't have top pair? Unless these questions answer favorably I actually say fold here. I'm really getting rid of PPs below 8s if there are only 1-2 limpers unless they play poorly postflop.10. 2 limpers to you on the button with Q :) J :) - Raise to take control, and your hand is good. I'm ok with calling here. Folding is bad.11. 1 player limps, UTG+1 raises, and you're next to act with A :) Q :) - Based on the play I typically see here I 3bet to get it to me and UTG+1. But if I know the raiser has a respectable PFR% of like 6-9 I probably should fold. But I don't usually fold AQo here. It might be a leak for me.12. 2 players limp, CO raises, and you're on the button with A :D Q :D - 3bet. Far far too large a chance CO is position raising. 13. 2 loose players limp, SB completes, you have A :) J :) in the BB. - Raising is ok here. I actually like checking more, for deception. Quite quite often one of the limpers has Arag, suited or not. I feel you make more money from him with some deception. Plus being out of position sucks. :)14. folded to you in MP1 with Q :) J :) - Too early, fold.15. 3 limpers to you in the small blind with K :) J :) - Raise is best I'd say, but I'm not horrified by just completing. I personally probably even just complete more here. Raise for sure if it's KQc.As, I think, others have said, so so many of your answers depend on the makeup of the table. How loose/tight it is on average. And if people actually do fold to 2 more cold when they limp. Stuff like that.

  15. I agree the Showdown % is low. Mine I thought was horrible at 52%. I have stopped paying people off just to show down a solid hand when a maniac catches runner runner to beat you out of a nice pot. It's so easy in limit to say what the heck I'll throw one more bet in even though I know I am beat.....but it ends up being an easy leak to fix if you're disciplined.
    It depends on what you're talking about. Most authors agree it's far far worse to fold a possible winner than to pay off 1 more bet. Harman has that in her section on SS2 as does just about every other author. I'd never considered it that important a stat to look at really.Ok, just checked. At my like 18.5k hands at my current limit I'm at 52 percent. I don't think I'll be stopping paying off people anytime soon. I'm pretty comfortable at about this level. What I feel my leak is, is not folding the turn more. But I typically feel that if you're already at the river (I'm speaking essentially HU which is the case a hell of a lot of the time), and you have any kind of hand at all, typically you should be calling. There are obvious exceptions, but that's my feelings for typical cases.[Edit]Oh bah, if you were talking PL/NL I retract half of what I said. But I stand by it for limit stuff. 8)
  16. Thanks for the link -- sort of. Now that I looked at it, I HATE the new box pictures. I especially hate the new Boo-Berry. He looks like the freakin' Stay Puff Marshmellow Man. I guess I didn't remember the werewolf too well because he was discontinued in '82. I was old enough to have tried it but I have no memory of him. But man, half those new pics are horrid.Ah well, I guess I've graduated beyond monster-cereal (maybe?).Thanks for the link.
  17. Your strategy sounds like it works against old people playing with their retirement money in some indian casino, but online, you better bring your "A" game.
    I know what you mean -- But this IS an "A" game for uberloose very passive tables. You don't just wait for AA/KK/AK suited. You limp it up with small and mid PPs and suited connectors and Ax suited. If you don't flop a strong draw, a set, or a ridiculously rare two pair/trips you fold the flop. But the pots where you do flop something solid, you stand to potentially win a monster pot from the calling stations.Online, typically you only see tables like this at .5/1. But sometimes tables morph into this in random places. I've seen tables in 15/30 and 2/4 and 3/6 where suddenly like 7 or more people are seeing flops a lot. It's rare perhaps, but you should know how to adapt when you see it.
  18. I saw a $294 pot on a $3/$6 table at Party.49 big bets, by far the largest I had ever seen at a $3/$6 table, and the winner says: "Biggest pot this week!!!"
    Yeah, my friend CLAIMED he had a 55 BB pot on 3/6, but he hasn't shown me the hand history. I don't know if I believe him. :twisted:
  19. Good point. All I was saying was that I think your odds were a little unclear as to if they were on the flop or the turn (i don't recall now)..You are correct though when you say you will have to call a minimum of 1.5 BB's on the flop to chase to the river. I know that.
    I dunno why I wrote so lengthily and vehemently. Sorry.Though I do think it's best to teach new people to figure pot odds one card at a time, not two. :D
  20. Know your basic ones.(roughly, rounded to whole numbers)Flush (9 outs) 4:1Oh I should give one example for if you've memorized stuff like the above.You have an open ended straight draw, 8 outs, so 5:1. We'll say you're playing 1/2 and this is the flop. So someone bets 1 dollar into you. The pot (INCLUDING their bet) needs to be at least 5 dollars for you to call 1.
    You need to clarify this stuff. A four-flush with 9 outs is only 4:1 after the turn. On the flop it's 35% to win, or slightly better than 2:1 odds against. An open-ender is about 32% to win after the flop. It is slightly less than 20% to win after the turn (about 18.5). Odds against making your hand are 2:1 on flop, and slightly more than 4:1 after turn card. Pot should be $10 for you to call $2 after turn, but after flop, it only has to be $3 for you to call $1 (and it's not heads-up action.. in other words, make sure 2 or more people are involved in the hand.)
    On the contrary, I don't have to clarify anything. I know all the odds for making by river, and I think it's HORRIBLE to teach novices this way. You should always be figuring pot odds for the next card (just about). Bet odds is when you should be considering completion over two cards. RE: for when you want to bet or raise your draws for value. A 4-flush is still 4.1:1 against on the flop to make by turn. Figuring pot odds over two cards (unless you're going to be allin) is not a wise plan in my experience. For it to be completely valid you HAVE to call turn to have it have been correct. Do you always call turn after you call flop? If so you can use the 2-card completion odds. And yeah, for a flush you just about always will be. But I think it's a very sloppy way to figure.To me it is akin to calling with barely (or just below) pot odds when you strongly suspect it will be raised after you. Then when it's back to you, you're like "Well of course now a call is correct!". But was it correct to call 2 bets on that betting round compared to what was in the pot? Sure you don't always KNOW it will be raised after you, but you often suspect it likely will be, and this turns a close call into an easy fold.Btw, maybe THAT's how people call pot sized bets in NL on the flop on a flush draw. They're getting 2:1 on their call and that's what a flush will hit if it goes to river! Sad for them, when they miss 4/5ths of the time I bet again on the turn. Or perhaps they're saying IMPLIED ODDS to themselves. Sorry, but I don't call an allin when a flush hits on turn or river. I never understood how they could make such bad calls but now I understand their (flawed) reasoning.[Edit]Btw let's look at your example. Limit hold'em - 1/23-handed to the flop. You flop an open ended straight draw. You're BB and SB bets out into you. You need to call 1 into a 4 dollar pot. You do so, so does the limper (good thing he didn't raise). Now the pot is 6 dollars going into the turn. You miss. SB bets again (2 dollars), you have to call 2 dollars into an 8 dollar pot. Not sufficient pot odds, you fold. And your flop call was contingent upon a turn call to have been correct. You just lost money (by your play, not because you missed your draw). My point here, (I suppose) is one problem with doing it by 2-card completion odds is that you typically won't have enough pot odds on the turn anyway to make a call there, which totally invalidates figuring by that system.Your example was 3 dollars to call 1, my example (as to not be HU) was 3handed and I could only come up with you calling 4 dollars instead of your example 3. 4 is actually doable because of implied odds sometimes, but my point is this reasoning can lead you to expensive errors over time. You could come up with a 3:1 call based on raises and that would be much more dicy than my example. In the example I gave, a call on the turn is still doable if the limper is really passive and won't be raising (and will still be calling the turn). I'm just trying to show the potential problems.In truth straight and flush draws are so strong you _will_ be calling them to the river almost always. But I still say it's a bad habit to do all of your figuring in terms of 2 cards to come.
  21. grammAR. grammAR. grammAR. ok, now im the douche :D
    OMG. You won't believe me but I truly thank you. I didn't mistype that, it was a true misspelling. I'm a horrid speller by nature and have slowly over the years gotten mocked and learned where I was wrong. This is one more! I'm getting closer to my goal of not sounding like a putz.YAY Blaze!
  22. Laugh Smash. I love your posts and respect your opinions. And JFarrall, well let's say the opposite. But do you really have to be snde to him when he's trying to ask for help?
    I think the tables I play at are awfully loose. 5-6 handed pots. You hate my posts and disrespect my opinions??? Wow, what did I ever do to you, MrConceit???"laugh smash"Gimme a break, he doesn't need your permission.
    Hah, sorry I perhaps didn't mean the EXACT opposite. I didn't know you were a "unique case". Sorry to imply he needed my permission! I just thought he was bing a bit nasty if you were trying to turn your game around.I'll take my foot out of my mouth now where it apparently got to.
  23. tsalagi2 wins $43.25 from the main pot with a flush, ace high with ace kicker.
    Ace kicker? What?
    He kicked their Aces! :lol:Griff
    Yeah, I'm not sure just what that "ace kicker" meant. I just copied and pasted it from my Poker Tracker records. But I like your version of it Griff :)
    It says that because somebody else had a flush. Namely the 72 :D .It will always say that when how high a flush you had was why you won, just like it says kicker when you win with an ace pair with AK vs AT. (this is on party, I don't know how each site does it.)
  24. Folding this turn if Td comes is equally terrible.Assuming you call the flop as you've suggested, to call a turn bet would at best be giving you 8-1 pot odds (if all players call the flop too). Now even your 'conservative' 5 outs are not getting the required odds. It's unlikely there will be any implied odds either given your position, and the 10d has just only increased the chances that you are drawing dead so it's actually -'ve implied oddsLook at the SIZE OF THE POT. Come-on Smash. You've proven that your a knowledgable and talented player so I'm shocked at this 10d statement.I'm shocked that you don't understand that folding the nut striaght to a flush possiblity here is a massive error in a pot this big. The straight has to be good, what, 1 time in 5 to make a profit? Probably less?Are you serious that you think someone has the flush 4/5 of the time??
    I agree with Smash on everything but his mistype. He originally mistyped (or missaw the board). He meant a Q :D , not the T :) . The Td gives AKo nothing here. With that proviso I think he's 100 percent on here.
  25. I just wanted to get everyone's opinion on my 2-4 and 3-6 bm strategy.  At a certain indian casino at new york state i have never lost money.  I sit down at 2-4 or 3-6 and within the first 5 hands or so i realize there is no threat of a pre-flop raise at the table.  Based on this information I loosen up my starting hand requirements quite a bit.  Then I get criticized by the table for winning pots with hands I shouldn't be playing.  One person told me "he didn't think it was the player" implying i was lucky to win the pots I was winning.  This was 2 hands after I laid down trips to a straight that got there.  I bet he couldn't have done that.  Anyways my contention is that if you allow me to see the flop free or cheap, then it's your own fault if I start to drag pot after pot.  for example i will play most connectors 6 or higher suited or unsuited depending on position. I'll play every pair.  I'll also play ace anything suited and ace ten or higher suited or not.  I always limp unless I have a big pocket pair or big slick.  I always bet the flop right out if I raised pre-flop.Then if I hit the flop I'll pound it.  If I don't I toss the hand.  Anyways I just wanted everyones opinion on my thinking...whether it's correct or I'm just a lucky idiot.  thanks
    I think you're utterly on. If you're in a loose-passive table where tons of people are seeing every flop, and no preflop raising, you SHOULD be playing all PPs and all suited connectors from every position. Thank them when they give you "advice" and tell them you're still learning. Or you're sorry but you came to GAMBLE! Those kinds of things would work I'd think. :)Oh, and like the second time I ever played live I was playing 3/6. I was button (or maybe CO), and like literally every person limped. I have 57 off and I'm like, this table is insane. I think I'll see the flop and see if I get a straight draw for THIS kind of price. So the flop comes down Q55 and I end up winning a monster pot vs KQ (and tons of people called flop and some turn). The whole table was amazed at my horrible play. It was most fun. Now I'm not saying that 57 off isn't an amazingly marginal call, but laugh 7 people limping in front of me.
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