MrConceit
-
Content Count
311 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by MrConceit
-
-
Well, I'm actually more like you in a way, if you're referring to "Sessions" as time at a table. I play 15/30 doing 2-3 tables at a time and I'm always in search of better tables. It's not just higher pot averages, that's just the easiest to go off of. I'll quite often sit at a table, take a dead blind (or whatever it's called) in CO and decide by the time my BB comes around that the table sucks (by my standards) and leave. In a typical 5 hour session I will have played on 16-24 tables on average. That's with say doing 1.5 tables a time on average. And my average time at a table is only 20-25 mins. But I still play for like 5 hours at a time. I try very hard to always be playing at tables that are good (again, by my standards). There are tons of 15/30 tables going at any time of day, and why play on a tight/crappy one. Although that depends on the type of table you want. I really like loose tables, more reminiscent of your .5/1 tables than otherwise. Loose-aggressive is my favorite, although the swings can be intense, but I feel they are the most profitable also.In regards to your posts in general... I imagine you've read this but I'll give it again. On uberloose tables you want to be playing any suited connector (for sure through 1-gaps and possibly 2-gaps), any PP regardless of position (now this assumes a loose non-AGGRESSIVE table which is often the case in those limits). And even if there is a single raise, as long as you get your 6+ opponents 1 raise is fine (by that I meant if you limped in early and it got raised, you don't mind especially as long as there are tons of people still in the hand. Your goal here, obviously, is to play hands that are good in multiway family pots.If you don't flop a flush draw, straight draw, or a set, you fold. Almost as simple as that. Obviously a made flush/straight or random two pair you're playing too (and you should be playing it fast, they're all going to be paying you off regardless). And of course you're still playing high PPs and AK.But in a table where 7 people see every flop, give me JTs ahead of AJo or even AQo ANY day of the week.So that's my main advice. Play a hell of a lot of suited connectors and every pocket pair (if the table isn't very aggressive preflop) regardless of position. This may go against some of what you read, but you have to play the looseass table. ATo is a horrible horrible hand on these tables, to say the least.Final thing: DON'T DO THIS ON NON-LOOSE TABLES, either because you've moved up, or because you're on a weird abberant .5/1 table that isn't loose. You have to be aware of what the table is like. The stuff I've been mentioning is talking about crazy ultra-loose no-fold'em-hold'em tables.
-
First are you wishing wanting to try more online or more B&M live or both?I'm much more knowledgable on the limit cash games online, but I've done some tourneys and NL/PL ring also. Though I've made a couple other final tables my only "big cash" was in a 20+2 buyin multi where I won 2.4k. I've only played live like 5-6 times total ever, so others will have to give you more exacts on that. First, the most important thing, is to make sure you are playing within your bankroll. If you have a good job and are doing this more for fun it isn't as important because you can just take another 100 out of your next paycheck, but it still applies to some degree regardless. I'm sure you've read in your books, but you want approx 200-250 (or 300) BB (big bets) in any given limit to play in it. But if you're willing to move down you can get by with a lot less, like maybe 150BB where if you go below 100 you move down a limit.You're more interested in NL so hopefully someone else will chime in how much you should want to do an X buyin NL cash game. I would guess you want something along the lines of 10-15X buyins? So for NL25 I'd say 250-375 bucks. Again that's a guess and someone who does NL ring seriously hopefully will chime in.The bottom end NL/PL games... I mostly play on Party (and skins), and NL/PL25 is a goldmine because of the overall horrid play. BUT one thing you have to remember. Because of all this horrible play, on a bad day you will be getting a number of horrible beats. But the thing with bad beats is it means you were favored to win. So if you take it in stride you can crush those games. As an example, I wanted to try out Omaha, so I've been playing PL25 Omaha (high) on party. And it's so easy to destroy. The people are so bad, calling with not even anything resembling odds most of the time. But on a bad day you can lose a few buyins because the fish sometimes bite hard and hit all their draws.So my summed advice is to deposit 250-500 bucks on whatever site you choose and try out the NL25 for a while. Get some experience and build that up so you can move up to a higher level.If you want SnG/STT (that's Sit 'n Gos or Single Table Tourneys, same thing) tourneys, I'd say 20 buyins for those is enough to be relatively safe. Multis are lots of fun, but it's hard to consistently make long-term cash in them online. I know of a few exceptions to this, but for most people that's the case. Not that that stops zillions of people from playing them constantly as often as they can though. And they still should be +EV, it's just the time between serious cashes can be so long.My final thing is: Almost nobody (of the vast unwashed masses) plays with anything resembling a proper bankroll, and they can't sustain their first or second bad downswing. Don't be one of those guys.
-
I've read a number of your posts and you're pretty knowledgable from all I can see justblaze, but what do you mean with the not forced to show online? PartyPoker (and any poker site I've looked at) always shows in hand histories if it went to showdown. You can look on Party just by clicking on the thing, even it if "mucked" during the actual hand in showdown. I heard they do this to be in with the "a player is able to request to see a hand if it goes to showdown" blah blah, and it's just easier to make it there in hand histories. I always check hand histories to see what people play and how they play it. It's moreso than in live since you can ALWAYS check, and not have to ask the dealer. I mean you can always check if it went to and through showdown.And in live, you can only request if it went to showdown also, right?MrConceitps. I'm new to the forum, how do you like "copy" the thing you're replying to so it shows up pretty and doesn't just say the Quote /Quote stuff?that theory does seem to make some sense. Also, the fact that they cannot be forced to show their hands online, whereas in live play any player can request to see the cards, revealing an embarassingly bad play. -
I just had to comment on this. First let me say I'm sure at some point the higher limit players do get largely filled with MOSTLY good players, but 3/6 isn't it, and 15/30 where I play mostly isn't it on party. There are more horrid players in 15/30 than you would believe. Now don't get me wrong, they're really tricky sometimes, but it's (on average) tricky bad. And between 1/2 to 2/3rds of them seem unable to lay down a mid (perish the thought of KK or QQ) PP regardless, unless it's a raising war between 2-3 other people.And lastly, I'm in 100 percent agreement with Smash (about PartyPoker). I only have about 45k hands I think, but it all works out mathematically like it should. My flushes hit roughly 1/3rd, so do other peoples, and my aces don't get cracked more than they should.Now on particular DAYS everything gets cracked, but that's just a downswing and bad luck, and on other days you'll have everything go your way. My horrid day I had yesterday was balanced by a week ago day of winning 1950 bucks in 2.5 hours. Oh, and a final point of the original poster I was replying to, AA vs 3-4 hands isn't that huge a favorite anyway. It's hardly shocking it would get cracked a lot. I mean it's a huge favorite vs any one of the hands, but not vs the field.I mean this is a rather contrived example perhaps, but look at AA vs 4 other hands allin preflop.pokenum -h ah ad - js jc - 7s 8s - kh qc - 2d 2c Holdem Hi: 850668 enumerated boardscards win %win lose %lose tie %tie EVAd Ah 357676 42.05 491596 57.79 1396 0.16 0.421Js Jc 143254 16.84 706018 83.00 1396 0.16 0.1698s 7s 165961 19.51 683311 80.33 1396 0.16 0.195Qc Kh 77961 9.16 771311 90.67 1396 0.16 0.0922c 2d 104420 12.28 744852 87.56 1396 0.16 0.123AA is only 42 percent to win total. If you take out the ducks and make it vs 3 hands it's still only 53.8 percent to win. So a cointoss vs the field.Oh, I checked preview and the formatting on that twodimes example sucks, so here's a url to see the AA vs 3 hands example where it's 53-odd percent to win if you couldn't read the paste.http://tinyurl.com/4bro3MrConceitNever played limit on Party, but I think part of it, Smash, is that people at the 3-6 level know when they should lay down their pocket pairs, or if their hand is no longer good. Back when I played at Party, I only played $5 or $10 SNGs, so the competition wasn't exactly the toughest so you'd get 4 all in one one hand with pocket pairs. Aces were cracked more often than they should, even heads up against a smaller pocket pair. It's not like I played 4 games and had aces cracked and was mad at it, I had a decent amount of games under my belt. If you ever get a chance Smash, play 3-4 $5 NLHE SNGs, and you might see some weird stuff happen. -
I just had the swingiest most annoying day ever yesterday. I always play through my downswings unless I'm affected mentally and it was a doozy. And _I_ don't think the online sites are rigged after yesterday...Check this out.I play 15/30, anywhere from 2-4 tables depending on how good the LAG tables are at the moment and my mood.So I have 3 hours of straight hell, I lose to every improbable stupid draw, and all my monster draws miss. Long story short, within 5 hours of playing 3-4 tables simul I'm down literally 3.6k. That's what? 120BB? So I grind and grind and go at it, and I work my way back to being only -1800 or so. Then I (and these happened on 2 tables within 2 mins of each other) get QQ cracked by a river 2 outer for large pots. Vs TT and JJ respectively. Both on the river. Both by people who passively called postflop on. So those 2 and 2 other hands set me back 800 at least, I battle some more and finally finish exhausted after 12 hours of play and approx 24.75 table hours for about 1667 hands. Oh and about -1600. While I hate to finish that far down I felt I accomplished a lot to come back from that crap.It was just one of those days when all the LAGs and chasers hit continually against you. And I still don't think the online sites are rigged. As somebody else pointed out, there is no point for them to be. The online sites make money HAND OVER FIST. They want everything to run smoothly.MrConceitWhat exactly is this "solid" poker? and yeah people can say what the want...but if the site doesnt want you to win u dont win... Just yesterday I lost a good 10 times to people with 3 outs or less... -
Well, I've read numerous places that Phil Ivey is intentionally playing a really fast-aggressive approach to either build chips or bust. He wants to either destroy the tourney or play in the lucrative cash games supposedly. Since he can make so much at the high end cash games.Check out http://www.barrygreenstein.com/pivey.htm and look specifically at the first _long_ paragraph. Ah heck, I'll quote the appropriate part, or some of it "And when he has played in a tournament event, he has played tired because of the cash game the night before. (I know because I have been in the games with him.) He also has had to adopt a style geared to build up quickly or get knocked out quickly during the event, so that he won’t wear himself out for the cash game later that night."As for Phil Hellmuth, we all know he's just all about making money off poker without playing poker nowadays, and he thinks he's god without having to try/practice. :)MrConceitis it just me or are phil ivey and phil hellmuth getting out early a ton these days??? It seems like in the past couple of poker tournaments ive been following and watching they keep getting out early. -
First off let me say... I'm in NO way trying to usurp Daniel on writing reviews, I just have about 30 times more time than he does, and I'm in the mood to give some reviews. Anyone is of course welcome to agree/disagree or flame. I've already given 3 starting books for playing low limit hold'em in a reply to another post. Here I'm going to post some more general books. Either covering multiple types of games, or not a literal how-to book.Theory of Poker by SklanskyI won't go into a lot of detail, I see others have talked about this. I will say I believe this to be 100 percent necessary for everyone to read when they get to a certain point in the game. It's is truly a bible of sorts. Everybody else good will have read this book, and why be at a disadvantage? Others have talked more on this so I won't say anything further.Improve Your Poker by Bob CiaffoneAn interesting book that covers a lot of topics and a lot of different types of games. He talks about general topics first, such as gamblings skills, reading your opponents, bluffing etc. Then he goes into some detail on Hold'em, Omaha, and Stud. His true love is "Big Bet" poker, a common way to speak of NL/PL games. This is a overall good book. In general I agree more with the 2+2 style of thinking, but this offers a definite good different perspective on poker, and Ciaffone's long record speaks for itself.Hold'Em Poker for Advanced Players by Sklansky/MalmuthThis doesn't belong in this section per se, but I'll throw it in and be brief. This is another must read EVENTUALLY, but it won't apply to most any of your games, especially for online for quite a while. But it covers many topics and discusses many things, and if you don't try to overuse the "advanced tactics" in your lower limit games you can learn quite a lot from this regardless of what level you are playing in. But depending on what you are playing, you don't need to bother with this book for a little while yet. This book is for approx 15/30 to 60/120 as I recall. And it tends to assume your opponents are reasonably good, which is a very poor assumption to base playing online 15/30 in my experience (in other words it is more talking about live play perhaps?). Those who loves this book will possibly yell at me here.Real Poker II: The Play of Hands by Roy CookeThis isn't a howto book, each chapter is an actual live hand played by Roy in a cash game. Roy has/had been playing poker for many many years for a living, primarily in 15/30 to 60/120 range. More often in 15/30 and 30/60 I believe. This is simply an amazing book for those of you looking to understand thought processes on how a good player thinks during hands. He goes through his thought processes on everything: From the obvious, his actual hand, and how that relates to the board throughout; His reads on various players, both in general and during the hand in question; and many many other things. It's actually a truly fun read too.Tournament Poker for Advanced Players by SklanskyThis book is a vital read for anybody who is an aspiring tourney player, of which it seems like 95 percent of the new players are. It discusses key things like the Gap Concept and the relative value of your chips. I think Daniel himself has reviewed this book or at least mentioned it before, so I won't say anything more.I think that's more than enough for now. Good luck to you all.
-
I've played poker for about a year, moving from 1/2 to 15/30, I nowadays play on Party and skins because of the large amount of bad players and LAGs. I'll name some books and my opinions on them.These books I'm first talking about will be geared more towards limit hold'em, ring/cash games.Winning Low Limit Hold'em by Lee JonesAs mentioned already, the Lee Jones book is reasonably solid. I do think it has you playing a bit weak-tight, though that's not a bad approach for a true beginner. You will learn a lot from if this is your first poker book. It actually was mine. You will beat low limit games with this book, just not as much as you could potentially be winning.Small Stakes Hold 'em: Winning Big With Expert Play by Ed Miller/Sklansky/MalmuthThis is absolutely the best book for learning how to beat the low limit games out there. This is obviously only my opinion, but I believe the book speaks for itself. It is a bit difficult for an utter newbie to the game perhaps, but if you persevere it should be doable. This is the only LL book I've read that really does seem to advocate a truly tight-aggressive style. If you have to read one book before attacking lower limits games, this is the book for you.The Complete Book of Hold'Em Poker by Gary CarsonThis book is a bit of a mix in terms of being for beginners or intermediate/advanced. The beginning is utterly for beginners, which is what took me a while to get through it. I put it down at first when I had only read the start, but a friend of mine got me to read the whole thing. Once you get past the first 1/4th, this book has a hell of a lot to offer. I highly recommend it. It approaches the game by looking at it from a lot of different perspectives, or what it calls theories of poker, depending on the style/texture of the table you're playing at. It will help you a lot in learning how to play draws aggressively if the table is loose. Anyway, I believe it is a fine addition to any library now that I finally got around to reading it in its entirety.I think that's enough for one post. I think I'll post on some other more general books or books that cover multiple types of poker.
daniel is cute? lol...seriously?
in General
Posted