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AcesOnFire

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Posts posted by AcesOnFire

  1. I still don't think you're getting it.There is no need to be thorough. Anyone who bets 99, or calls 99, on that board, with that many players in the hand, needs it explained to them very simply.It doesn't matter if he understands your explanation.It would be like me trying to explain in detail every part of a car engine, when the person I am trying to teach it to can't figure out how to even put the key in the ignition.
    Makes sense.
    I agree with this statement.It's nice to sound smart with all this math and poker lingo, but when teaching someone completely green you just gotta say this bet sucks.
    But but but. he's my dad! lol
  2. I'm lost. Who has KQ? Your dad is the 99 guy right? So I don't get the way you are breaking down the hand.If your dad is the 99 guy then I can break down the entire hand in one sentence.Start the hand with $25, and c/f on every street when you setmine with a mid PP and the flop comes w/ 2 overs against 5 opponents.If he doesn't understand that concept then breaking down ranges and getting all theoretical with possible hands and equities is only going to confuse him unnecessarily. KISS - Keep it simple stupid.Unless there is something else going on here?
    My dad didn't have the KQ but we discussed how the guy played KQ. And that is what I was trying to tell him, just being extremely thorough and pointing out how far behind he is, he has a good grasp of most of the concepts of poker, he just has trouble applying them in te right spots.
    i can't believe you posted the same hand THREE DIFFERENT TIMES.PS that bet if you are CO is probably the worst bet ever.PS2. That pokerstove crap is so unnecessary for this handPS3. I want one of these.
    Well the first time I wanted help with writing it, the 2nd time I posted the entire thing at the recommendation of another Challenge thread poster, and the 3rd time because people ignored it or didn't state as to why they weren't responding to it.PS. I know, I told him it was horrible at the bottomPS2 Indeed, but I was just being through in order to explain how bad he played the hand.PS3 Meh, Xbox > PS3.
    Thats real nice of you to do all that pokerstove stuff for your dad. I dont know if there is much to discuss with the 99 part of the hand since everyone here knows you are WA/WB on that flop so they wouldnt bet.
    Yeah fair enough, just wondered what people thought of how I explained it.
    The reason you didn't get any responses is because that post is confusing as hell and I'm sure just like me, others have no clue what you are getting at. You don't need stove ranges (not really sure why those are there either really because it makes no sense given the situation) to be able to explain to someone that they shouldn't be betting with 99 on a KJx board in a 5 way pot. The fact that we are confused and we know what pokerstove, etc are, probably means your dads head exploded. Sorry if this comes off dickish but if you are going to call us out for not responding to your post then you should know that it is because the post didn't really make much sense.
    LOL. Yeah I was just trying to be thorough, I know it's simple enough to us but I wanted to show him as thoroughly as possible just how far behind we are with 99.
  3. Reposting this, think it is worthy of some discussion.So I was discussing this hand with my dad that he played and he thought that if we were the player with QK reraising was the best move and I wanted to explain to him that although it's not terrible, it's not the best line IMO. Then I went on to explain as to why his play with 99 (we're CO) is incorrect as he said he would play it the same way and just bet more on the river instead, this is what I wrote (starts off with 'if we had KQ'). Thought you guys might find it interesting/have fun laughing at it. Thanks to CitizenErased for helping me out.PokerStars No-Limit Hold'em, $0.25 BB (8 handed) - Poker-Stars Converter Tool from FlopTurnRiver.comCO ($16.95)Button ($6.25)SB ($24.75)BB ($23.15)UTG ($23.55)UTG+1 ($4.30)MP1 ($29.30)MP2 ($25.40)Preflop:2 folds, MP1 calls $0.25, MP2 raises to $1, CO calls $1, 1 fold, SB calls $0.90, BB calls $0.75, MP1 calls $0.75Flop: ($5) :D, :4h, :D(5 players)SB checks, BB checks, MP1 checks, MP2 checks, CO bets $1.50, 1 fold, BB calls $1.50, 1 fold, MP2 calls $1.50Turn: ($9.50) :club:(3 players)BB checks, MP2 checks, CO checksRiver: ($9.50) :5c(3 players)BB checks, MP2 checks, CO bets $2, 1 fold, MP2 calls $2Total pot: $13.50 | Rake: $0.65Results:MP2 had :ts, :D (one pair, Kings).CO had :3h, :D (one pair, nines).Outcome: MP2 won $12.85Check raising here with QK in't horrible here, and I understand why you would do it, to extract an extra bet from a player and to prevent other cards coming that complete possible draws but I think by check raising I think we are playing scared and folding out a lot of the hands that we can extract value from, like JT, J9/8/Q that stick around here if we just fire out a good C bet and we at the time thin out the number of opponents we may have to showdown to, which we want to with a mediocre hand like QK (not that we really want to push out draw chasers in situations where we have one opponent and they are drawing, remember, we want them to call with the wrong odds, and therefore we profit because statistically they aren't going to hit their cards, it's easy to forget this). If the turn is a blank which most of the time it will be against the thinned out opponents, we can bet out again and get a call from those hands still chasing or a weaker king and extract more value. I think if a safe river follows we should bet but ready to fold to a raise. If the turn is unsafe, we have to exercise more pot control by check calling or even betting amd folding to a raise. If after an unsafe turn we get a bad river for us, we should just be check folding. If however the river is blank we should be checking then folding to a bet or checking then calling, but this is villan dependent.An alternate line is simply checking the flop and then calling a bet (slight risk of a free card here though but unlikely when there are 4/5 players in the hand), if the turn is a blank we can try to extract some value. If not then it's as I described above.So really all that changes in this hand is the possible lines to take on the flop, they all have their pros and cons, but I think we can get the most value out of leading out initially, while raising the chance our winning a show down by getting rid of a couple of opponents. The line taken on the turn and river should remain the same. We have to be prepared to lay the hand down to being played back at, and realise there are plenty of hands that beat us. I think we should still be prepared to fold to raise on the river even if the turn and river have both blanked as our equity is much poorer than you'd think: 540 games 0.005 secs 108,000 games/secBoard: Jd 4d Kh Th 3cDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 20.000% 13.33% 06.67% 72 36.00 { KQs, KQo }Hand 1: 80.000% 73.33% 06.67% 396 36.00 { KK-TT, AJs+, KJs+, AQo+, KJo+ }However when we are facing a looser opponent we are face with a harder decision because they are seeing the river with a much wider range of hands and may just be playing at us with a lot of hands we beat and it therefore it becomes helpful to have some kind of read on the villan (but notice how our equity is still negative): 1,203 games 0.005 secs 240,600 games/secBoard: Jd 4d Kh Th 3cDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 47.132% 44.14% 02.99% 531 36.00 { KQs, KQo }Hand 1: 52.868% 49.88% 02.99% 600 36.00 { TT-99, AJs+, KJs+, Q9s+, J9s+, T9s, AQo+, KJo+, QTo-Q9o, J9o+, T9o }Anyway, your actual hand:You shouldn't be betting there with 99. The likelyhood is at least one of them has atleast a jack and are just playing scared. I mean lets take a look at your equity versus the preflop raiser alone (i've given him what I feel is a realistic range): 101,970 games 0.005 secs 20,394,000 games/secBoard: Jd 4d KhDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 29.307% 28.83% 00.47% 29401 483.50 { 9c9d }Hand 1: 70.693% 70.22% 00.47% 71602 483.50 { 77+, AJs+, KJs+, QJs, T9s, AJo+, KJo+ } Now lets throw everyone else in and their viable hand ranges (this one took an hour to calculate), an almost random hand has more equity: 1,034,102,684,121 games 33242.124 secs 31,108,201 games/secBoard: Jd 4d KhDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 36.913% 35.65% 01.26% 368669351534 13051212291.64 { 77+, AJs+, KJs+, QJs, T9s, AJo+, KJo+ }Hand 1: 09.261% 09.15% 00.11% 94668757669 1097988381.14 { 9c9d }Hand 2: 22.001% 20.74% 01.26% 214439935984 13067982937.52 { JJ-66, AQs-A4s, K9s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T9s, 98s, AQo-A9o, KTo+ }Hand 3: 16.515% 15.61% 00.91% 161375338719 9411767207.56 { JJ-44, AQs-A5s, K7s+, Q7s+, J7s+, T7s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, AQo-A6o, K7o+, Q8o+, J8o+, T8o+, 97o+ }Hand 4: 15.310% 14.62% 00.69% 151193971296 7126378093.75 { 22+, A2s+, K4s+, Q6s+, J6s+, T6s+, 97s+, 86s+, 75s+, 63s+, 53s+, 43s, A4o+, K5o+, Q7o+, J7o+, T7o+, 97o+, 87o, 76o, 64o+, 53o+ }Ok so Add in the turn with the other villans viable range on the turn and your equity is 0% 302,400 games 0.141 secs 2,144,680 games/secBoard: Jd 4d Kh ThDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 75.211% 73.58% 01.63% 222507 4929.67 { 99+, AJs+, KJs+, QJs, JTs, T9s, AJo+, KJo+ }Hand 1: 03.679% 03.23% 00.45% 9769 1357.67 { 9c9d }Hand 2: 21.110% 19.28% 01.83% 58300 5536.67 { TT-88, ATs, KJs+, QTs+, JTs, T9s, 98s, 87s, AJo-ATo, KJo, QJo, JTo, T8o+, 98o }Once we are at the river, assuming our villans are somewhat standard we can narrow down their ranges by how they have played the hand so far (taking out the really big hands here that probably would have made some kind of move for value on the turn): 120,834 games 0.031 secs 3,897,870 games/secBoard: Jd 4d Kh ThDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 84.005% 81.38% 02.63% 98334 3173.17 { AA, QQ, TT-99, AQs-AJs, KQs, QJs, T9s, AQo-AJo }Hand 1: 02.181% 01.80% 00.38% 2175 460.67 { 9c9d }Hand 2: 13.813% 11.30% 02.51% 13656 3035.17 { 99-88, ATs, KQs, QTs+, T9s, 98s, 87s, AJo-ATo, QJo, T8o+ }Hopefully you'll see the problem with your hand here. If you look at your hand against your opponents possible ranges (which you should always try and establish to some extent, it's usually not going to be so exact), you see that your hand has basically no value here at all. On the river you give them 5 to 1, meaning their hand only has to have 20% equity against your hand and clearly at least one of them is likely it has a lot more than that. My range with the 2nd villan seems to make sense and he folds to your bet. Hopefully this rather thorough explanation will help you out in these kind of situations in the future (took me 6 hours!).

  4. Pot control is not betting to keep the pot small fyi, so that can't be what you're doing when you bet :)And if you want value, raise the flop. By just calling the flop you're minimizing the value you're going to be able to extract from overpairs or big hands. When you take the line you did, you're losing at least $200 in value vs AA and maybe more depending on how scary the river is for him/you.Mark
    Or betting to stop a bet on a later street/ a larger bet size from an opponent too?
  5. So I was discussing this hand with my dad that he played and he thought that if we were the player with QK reraising was the best move and I wanted to explain to him that although it's not terrible, it's not the best line IMO. Then I went on to explain as to why his play with 99 (we're CO) is incorrect as he said he would play it the same way and just bet more on the river instead, this is what I wrote (starts off with 'if we had KQ'). Thought you guys might find it interesting/have fun laughing at it. Thanks to CitizenErased for helping me out.PokerStars No-Limit Hold'em, $0.25 BB (8 handed) - Poker-Stars Converter Tool from FlopTurnRiver.comCO ($16.95)Button ($6.25)SB ($24.75)BB ($23.15)UTG ($23.55)UTG+1 ($4.30)MP1 ($29.30)MP2 ($25.40)Preflop:2 folds, MP1 calls $0.25, MP2 raises to $1, CO calls $1, 1 fold, SB calls $0.90, BB calls $0.75, MP1 calls $0.75Flop: ($5) :D, :4h, :D(5 players)SB checks, BB checks, MP1 checks, MP2 checks, CO bets $1.50, 1 fold, BB calls $1.50, 1 fold, MP2 calls $1.50Turn: ($9.50) :club:(3 players)BB checks, MP2 checks, CO checksRiver: ($9.50) :5c(3 players)BB checks, MP2 checks, CO bets $2, 1 fold, MP2 calls $2Total pot: $13.50 | Rake: $0.65Results:MP2 had :ts, :D (one pair, Kings).CO had :3h, :D (one pair, nines).Outcome: MP2 won $12.85Check raising here with QK in't horrible here, and I understand why you would do it, to extract an extra bet from a player and to prevent other cards coming that complete possible draws but I think by check raising I think we are playing scared and folding out a lot of the hands that we can extract value from, like JT, J9/8/Q that stick around here if we just fire out a good C bet and we at the time thin out the number of opponents we may have to showdown to, which we want to with a mediocre hand like QK (not that we really want to push out draw chasers in situations where we have one opponent and they are drawing, remember, we want them to call with the wrong odds, and therefore we profit because statistically they aren't going to hit their cards, it's easy to forget this). If the turn is a blank which most of the time it will be against the thinned out opponents, we can bet out again and get a call from those hands still chasing or a weaker king and extract more value. I think if a safe river follows we should bet but ready to fold to a raise. If the turn is unsafe, we have to exercise more pot control by check calling or even betting amd folding to a raise. If after an unsafe turn we get a bad river for us, we should just be check folding. If however the river is blank we should be checking then folding to a bet or checking then calling, but this is villan dependent.An alternate line is simply checking the flop and then calling a bet (slight risk of a free card here though but unlikely when there are 4/5 players in the hand), if the turn is a blank we can try to extract some value. If not then it's as I described above.So really all that changes in this hand is the possible lines to take on the flop, they all have their pros and cons, but I think we can get the most value out of leading out initially, while raising the chance our winning a show down by getting rid of a couple of opponents. The line taken on the turn and river should remain the same. We have to be prepared to lay the hand down to being played back at, and realise there are plenty of hands that beat us. I think we should still be prepared to fold to raise on the river even if the turn and river have both blanked as our equity is much poorer than you'd think: 540 games 0.005 secs 108,000 games/secBoard: Jd 4d Kh Th 3cDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 20.000% 13.33% 06.67% 72 36.00 { KQs, KQo }Hand 1: 80.000% 73.33% 06.67% 396 36.00 { KK-TT, AJs+, KJs+, AQo+, KJo+ }However when we are facing a looser opponent we are face with a harder decision because they are seeing the river with a much wider range of hands and may just be playing at us with a lot of hands we beat and it therefore it becomes helpful to have some kind of read on the villan (but notice how our equity is still negative): 1,203 games 0.005 secs 240,600 games/secBoard: Jd 4d Kh Th 3cDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 47.132% 44.14% 02.99% 531 36.00 { KQs, KQo }Hand 1: 52.868% 49.88% 02.99% 600 36.00 { TT-99, AJs+, KJs+, Q9s+, J9s+, T9s, AQo+, KJo+, QTo-Q9o, J9o+, T9o }Anyway, your actual hand:You shouldn't be betting there with 99. The likelyhood is at least one of them has atleast a jack and are just playing scared. I mean lets take a look at your equity versus the preflop raiser alone (i've given him what I feel is a realistic range): 101,970 games 0.005 secs 20,394,000 games/secBoard: Jd 4d KhDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 29.307% 28.83% 00.47% 29401 483.50 { 9c9d }Hand 1: 70.693% 70.22% 00.47% 71602 483.50 { 77+, AJs+, KJs+, QJs, T9s, AJo+, KJo+ } Now lets throw everyone else in and their viable hand ranges (this one took an hour to calculate), an almost random hand has more equity: 1,034,102,684,121 games 33242.124 secs 31,108,201 games/secBoard: Jd 4d KhDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 36.913% 35.65% 01.26% 368669351534 13051212291.64 { 77+, AJs+, KJs+, QJs, T9s, AJo+, KJo+ }Hand 1: 09.261% 09.15% 00.11% 94668757669 1097988381.14 { 9c9d }Hand 2: 22.001% 20.74% 01.26% 214439935984 13067982937.52 { JJ-66, AQs-A4s, K9s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T9s, 98s, AQo-A9o, KTo+ }Hand 3: 16.515% 15.61% 00.91% 161375338719 9411767207.56 { JJ-44, AQs-A5s, K7s+, Q7s+, J7s+, T7s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, AQo-A6o, K7o+, Q8o+, J8o+, T8o+, 97o+ }Hand 4: 15.310% 14.62% 00.69% 151193971296 7126378093.75 { 22+, A2s+, K4s+, Q6s+, J6s+, T6s+, 97s+, 86s+, 75s+, 63s+, 53s+, 43s, A4o+, K5o+, Q7o+, J7o+, T7o+, 97o+, 87o, 76o, 64o+, 53o+ }Ok so Add in the turn with the other villans viable range on the turn and your equity is 0% 302,400 games 0.141 secs 2,144,680 games/secBoard: Jd 4d Kh ThDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 75.211% 73.58% 01.63% 222507 4929.67 { 99+, AJs+, KJs+, QJs, JTs, T9s, AJo+, KJo+ }Hand 1: 03.679% 03.23% 00.45% 9769 1357.67 { 9c9d }Hand 2: 21.110% 19.28% 01.83% 58300 5536.67 { TT-88, ATs, KJs+, QTs+, JTs, T9s, 98s, 87s, AJo-ATo, KJo, QJo, JTo, T8o+, 98o }Once we are at the river, assuming our villans are somewhat standard we can narrow down their ranges by how they have played the hand so far (taking out the really big hands here that probably would have made some kind of move for value on the turn): 120,834 games 0.031 secs 3,897,870 games/secBoard: Jd 4d Kh ThDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 84.005% 81.38% 02.63% 98334 3173.17 { AA, QQ, TT-99, AQs-AJs, KQs, QJs, T9s, AQo-AJo }Hand 1: 02.181% 01.80% 00.38% 2175 460.67 { 9c9d }Hand 2: 13.813% 11.30% 02.51% 13656 3035.17 { 99-88, ATs, KQs, QTs+, T9s, 98s, 87s, AJo-ATo, QJo, T8o+ }Hopefully you'll see the problem with your hand here. If you look at your hand against your opponents possible ranges (which you should always try and establish to some extent, it's usually not going to be so exact), you see that your hand has basically no value here at all. On the river you give them 5 to 1, meaning their hand only has to have 20% equity against your hand and clearly at least one of them is likely it has a lot more than that. My range with the 2nd villan seems to make sense and he folds to your bet. Hopefully this rather thorough explanation will help you out in these kind of situations in the future (took me 6 hours!).

  6. Can someone tell me if I'm still running hot?hotness.png
    Son of a ****, nice work. This at NL100?
    lol.Absolute PokerNo Limit Holdem Ring gameBlinds: $0.10/$0.256 playersConverterPre-flop: (6 players) Hero is UTG+1 with :D:club:UTG raises to $0.5, Hero calls, CO calls, 3 folds.Flop: :4h:D:5c ($1.85, 3 players)UTG checks, Hero bets $1.5, CO raises to $4.5, UTG folds, Hero raises to $10, CO raises to $31.85, Hero calls all-in $11.84.Uncalled bets: $10.01 returned to CO.Turn: :3h ($45.53, 1 player + 1 all-in - Main pot: $45.53)River: :D ($45.53, 1 player + 1 all-in - Main pot: $45.53)Results:Hero shows :D :jsUTG shows :ts :jhUTG wins $45.53
    \life.
  7. Can someone give me a hand here? I am sitting at home after a business trip looking through hand histories (don;t want to play poker when I am knackered), analysing them, poker stoving them and the like and I came through one involving my dad, and I was explaining to him why the preflop raiser with KQ should be betting straight out here a large amount against 5 players, my dad believes he should check reraise the flop and give people less odds to draw. At 25NL I don't think this is the right line usually, but I am having problems wording why it isn't. So can anyone explain to be just why we should be leading out here, I think I know but I can't get it down. What I have written so far:You shouldn't understand him checking there. Not at all, not even slightly. 5 opponents with 2 different draws out there. You should be betting there heavily and again on the turn if it is a blank. I know you're thinking 'Well if someone bets and he reraises and they fold he wins an extra bet' but with so many players in the pot and such a draw heavy board at least one person is always going to continue and you can't let them do it cheaply, if you check you may let a free card come out. With a hand like AA we want to get all the money in right there with as few as possible players seeing a showdown. If we bet strong and someone calls, we can narrow their range and fold out some draws. If they raise we can shove over them if they think they are the kind of player to make that move with a big draw or if they are a super nit be willing to call and fold on the turn if need be or fold right now, If you check to them they could be betting with anything so when we raise <Not sure what to write here>Text results appended to pokerstove.txt 89,483,320 games 2.625 secs 34,088,883 games/secBoard: Jd 4d KhDead: equity win tie pots won pots tied Hand 0: 08.101% 08.06% 00.04% 7214639 34165.50 { 9c9d }Hand 1: 31.207% 28.26% 02.94% 25289822 2635085.50 { 77+, AJs+, KJs+, QJs, JTs, ATo+, KJo+ }Hand 2: 12.681% 11.94% 00.74% 10687871 659306.50 { TT-88, ATs, KJs+, QTs+, JTs, T9s, 98s, 87s, AJo-ATo, KJo, QJo, JTo, T8o+, 98o, 87o }Hand 3: 48.012% 44.99% 03.02% 40260301 2702129.50 { KQs, KQo }cheers.

  8. This isn't terrible right? I've got a little history with this villan, IE 2 hands ago I 3 bet his blind steal, he 4 bet me, I believe somewhat thinking I was restealing, I called with TT I then bet the flop and he folded. He is running 21/15/2.5Think he can be CRAI with a really wide range here and my 4 bet makes it very hard for him to continue.PokerStars No-Limit Hold'em, $0.10 BB (6 handed) - Poker-Stars Converter Tool from FlopTurnRiver.comButton ($10.10)SB ($11.60)BB ($13.70)UTG ($9.75)Hero (MP) ($24.15)CO ($21.55)Preflop: Hero is MP with :D, :jhUTG calls $0.10, Hero raises to $0.50, 3 folds, BB calls $0.40, 1 foldFlop: ($1.15) :club:, :D, :ts(2 players)BB checks, Hero bets $0.80, BB raises to $2, Hero raises to $6

  9. Its so that you don't get stacked by a better hand. For instance, recently AcesonFire posted how all his big (60bbs+) losses in hands are with overpairs. That is because he isn't pot controlling. He's running into sets or 2 pair or whatever probably a lot and betting flop, betting turn and then finds himself pot committed when villain shoves turn or river. If you pot control and villain outflops your medium strength hand, you only lose half a stack instead of a whole stack.As a general rule, you have 3 'bets' post flop. With medium strength (one pair type) hands, you want to get 2 bets in, which equates to roughly 50bbs total of your stack in the pot by the river.Mark
    Ha, I wish. Most of the time it was the flop, I'd just get it all in there and then but they would have made a better hand. I had no reason to exercise keeping the pot small as it made sense for me to have the best hand. But you are somewhat right, there were times when I inflated the pot on the turn and river when I was beaten and in a couple of cases where overpairs were clearly not in the lead.
  10. Virtually all my big losses (IE over 60bb ) are with premium pairs. Guess this would suggest I need to know when to lay them down?Also it would really help if I could get my non SD into the positive, seeing as I am being such a nit, that really should be in the positive no?ETA: Given that I am being so nitty and non SD winnings are in the minus, it would suggest I am playing weak tight. Not good as I wouldn't percieve myself that way, guess I need to be floating/playing back more.

  11. That Cbet% looks ridiculously low, as does your att. to steal. You're missing out on a lot of money by playing so tight imo, especially without cbets. What's your WTSD%? Your W$SD looks high enough that your WTSD% could well be too low.
    Added to my above post.I think my Cbet is ok? I tend to Cbet flops that to my villan would make sense that I hit. I see all this talk of 'The Cbet is over used' too. Constant C betting is just going to make me predictable and therefore exploitable thorough floating and reraising which leaves me struggling to continue the hand.
  12. For my 1000th post, statistics of my failure:VPIP: 13PFR: 11AF: 3CBET: 60%3 Bet: 5%Att to steal: 18%Call PFR: 5.5%Fold to Cbet: 61%W$SD: 55%W$WSF: 42%Call River raise: 75%Call river bet: 36.87%WTSD: 29%Any stats missing? And yeah, I play so damn nitty, I tried to loosen up towards the end of the month, I liked playing looser but my results don't change. I am beginning to think my problem is just making bad calls on the river in big pots as I don't think my stats are out of line?

    From what I've seen you're playing on pokerstars and putting in some pretty insane volume at microlimits. If you do deposit again, I really think it's a better idea to do it on Full Tilt. 100% deposit bonus plus 27% rakeback provides a very nice buffer when you go on downswings. Just my two cents.
    I was considering this, but then I was told that Supernova is equal to rakback on FTP and you can just buy cash bonuses from the store?
  13. Matt pretty much summed it up but I just wanted to point out this isn't true at all. Not even close to true. Not if you do what you should be doing. The fact is, it can last much longer than that. I have run pretty bad (horrible for much of it) over the last month which includes about 100k hands. Point is, you need to take responsibility somewhere even if that includes not moving down when you should.
    Thanks for the input RDog, and yeah it is my fault. In reality I look at my graph and well yeah let me show you...novemberfailwd3.jpgI tilted badly at the massive drop off, then I feel like things got shitty luck wise (but at the same time probably full of erroneous play). I tilt easily, the whole downslope was triggered when I got my money in good a couple of times, lost the hands, and was annoyed at losing my 6k hands work that day that I tilted like a maniac out of pure frustration. I just don't understand how It could of gone so decently in October and then suddenly just turn to crap in November. Something must have changed in my play. But I don't have the skill to identify what.
  14. Hey,I know that hearing any kind of criticism at a time like this is really shitty cause of how you are feeling, but I also feel that when you hit some sort of bottom like you've hit, you're looking for someone to say something that will open your eyes or help turn things around.Having just come out of a big downswing myself (longer hand wise and larger in terms of buyins than I thought I was really susceptible to) I know that you want to try and put blame in other places aside from yourself. I know that I ran insanely bad and ran into more coolers than I can really count, but I also know that inbetween those plays, I made mistakes. I wasn't tilting off buyins. I wasn't playing like a moron or anything, but I didn't play as well as I could have. I had a defeatist attitude when I would start losing a few dollars and then the day would spiral downward. The cards even out. I'm responsible for everything else.The fact is that you probably are not or were not playing as well as you thought you were. Sometimes the problem is that you don't really have the skill level to understand the mistakes you're making, or the honesty with yourself to really admit when you played badly. Given that I know nothing about your game, these are just generalized statements.If you had a properly large bankroll for when you were playing your limits, you should not go broke. This is because when you lose a certain portion of it, you drop down and keep plugging away.I mean, whatever happened is done. You can say whatever you want on here. You can say that you never made a mistake and always got your money in correctly. You can say that your opponents made one horrible play after another and that you were on the wrong side of every cooler. That's fine. Say whatever you want here. In reality, go back and look at your hands and maybe it wasn't the big pots where you played badly, but if you lose a whole proper bankroll, you made a lot of mistakes somewhere. Go find those. Go fix them and be brutally honest with yourself about where you played badly. If you're not sure, ask someone. Take overall responsibility for how things play out. If you give the poker universe enough hands, you cooler them just as much as they cooler you. It's your job to have a bankroll to weather that storm and make sure that you're always putting your money into the pot in the other hands when you're supposed to.GL rebuilding. Just be honest with yourself because if you're not, you can basically never progress as a poker player.
    Thanks Matt, that means a lot, especially coming from you.Time to get some hand reviews and just step away from playing for a while, just review my play this month. Have to convince myself to play seriously when I do start playing again at a lower limit.
  15. Sucks to hear :(Were you still 24-tabling the whole time? Session Review etc?Well anyway, I decided to play a quick session before lunch to get back into the swing of things. Nice fucking life.69.44 BB/100 imo
    I think that looks pretty sustainable!Yeah, I went over my sessions, I made the ocassional stupid move or call, but the pot sizes were generally small (pot control ftw) apart from when I'd gone a little tilty. Where my big money went was getting it in on flops with an overpair only to see my opponent had out flopped me. I only 24 tabled once to see if I could, and profit. I could, but I didn't enjoy the game as much and recently I've just been 4-6 tabling. As my bankroll disappeared I didn't move down just because I couldn't take it seriously and I knew, I KNEW I was playing solid poker, hell I was reviewing my sessions, plugging leaks and watching hours and hours of card runners. It's so SO frustrating. ARGH! I was beating the game nicely, then came this massive stretch that wipes out my bankroll. Seriously, what the hell? Guess I need to go get a job now.On a random note, I'm getting on AIM if anyone is around.
  16. Aaaaaannnnddddddnd busto. Poker is infact directly related to luck. Because when it decides that whenever you get it in with the over pair on the flop or before, they'll make trips, it doesn't actually matter how skilled you are, apart from perhaps skilled in the way of changing time, because those chips are going to the other side of the table. You could make up for it in those big hands you make, but you won't because your opponets will have nothing. No matter how loose or tight you play, they will have no cards, so it makes no difference. But ocasionally when you do make it to show down with a good hand, you'll find that your opponent has infact made that flush that you never gave him more than 2 to 1 on, or that your opponent who floated you out of position with A high hit his hand or perhaps even better, your full house will get rivered by quads 3 times. When this all lasts for 30 thousand hands, you'll lose your bankroll. Good times. I'll admit I made a few tilt induced moves, but holy shit. Holy shit. That is all.

  17. Villan is 38/25/2.3 over 50 hands and is yet to fold to a 3bet.PokerStars No-Limit Hold'em, $0.25 BB (5 handed) - Poker-Stars Converter Tool from FlopTurnRiver.comSB ($7.95)Hero (BB) ($54.85)UTG ($37.20)MP ($25.20)Button ($32.65)Preflop: Hero is BB with :4h, :club:2 folds, Button raises to $0.50, 1 fold, Hero raises to $2.50, Button calls $2Flop: ($5.10) :ts, :D, :D(2 players)Hero checks, Button bets $1.50, Hero raises to $4.50, Button raises to $7.50, Hero calls $3Turn: ($20.10) :5c(2 players)Hero checks, Button bets $12.50, Hero calls $12.50River: ($45.10) :D(2 players)Hero checks, Button bets $10.15 (All-In), Hero foldsTotal pot: $45.10 | Rake: $2Can't work out what the villan has here but I hadn't seen him be so aggressive so far. 55 or KT is the only hand that makes sense to me here?

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