A lot of my choices were slightly different than normal due to the current texture of my opponents:

BB: Stats (50 / 8 / 1.4 through 40 hands) He's listed as a LOOSE MANIAC in poker edge, and I have to agree (he's way too aggressive in the hands he has played so far)

MP: Stats (53 / 28 / 1.4 through 177 hands) He's on tilt, having dropped $1,700 at the table and berating opponents every time he loses. He has a very wide opening range, but still *seems* to play straight-forward post-flop, despite the tilt.

CO: Fairly new to the table. Seems to be a fish, but his stack is so short, I don't care what he has.

Button: Stats (63 / 39 / 3.8) He's the other big stack. He is loose pre-flop, often 3-betting with odd hands. He seems to play straightforward post-flop, especially in large pots (wants to protect his chip stack, I imagine)

I only call pre-flop (instead of 3-betting to thin the field) because I'm OOP, and this table has shown a trend that every player who calls an initial PFR will happily call the 3-bet, too.

Two questions:
1) Do you like the flop lead (I have lots of draws, but few are to the nuts). If I do lead, do you want it to be for pot, or around half-pot like here.

2) Does anyone bet less than pot on the turn?

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PokerStars Pot-Limit Omaha High, $4 BB (6 handed) Hand History Converter Tool from FlopTurnRiver.com (Format: FlopTurnRiver Cards)

CO ($58)
Button ($1339.10)
Hero ($1863.55)
BB ($77.25)
UTG ($400)
MP ($400)

Preflop: Hero is SB with , , , .
1 fold, MP raises to $12, CO raises to $42, Button calls $42, Hero calls $40, BB calls $38, MP calls $30.

Flop: ($210) , , (5 players)
Hero bets $120, BB calls $35.25 (All-In), MP folds, CO calls $16 (All-In), Button calls $120.

Turn: ($501.25) (4 players, 2 all-in)
Hero bets $498.25

I don't think I'd lead the flop in a 5 way pot. I think a passive line OOP works better for pot control. If you get raised on the flop you're going to be faced with a very tough decision.

As played, I wouldn't pot the turn. I think $350 is good enough, and might get looked up by some weaker straights and maybe even by a naked flush draw with 7 outs. Make it the 6c on the turn and I'm potting it.

I am not leading this flop either. Button has the stack that can hurt you. It will put is in a really difficult situation if he raises on flop.

Do we want to play for 3 buyins with this hand? Pot control is the word on flop IMO.

I think i am potting turn. I don't want to see a heart on river. Because we are paying off anything that hit on river. I want to know that i did all i can to stop draw from getting there.

I know you "don't care about the shortstacks, but they can actually work in your favor here. The fact that there are two with less than $40 means it's going to be almost impossible to whiff on a check/raise here. I'd check and hope the button makes a raise, but then regardless of whether he does or not, I'd go for a full pot C/R. With all your outs, the only thing you're in bad shape against is AA+NFD and I kinda doubt that button doesn't 4-bet aces preflop with the chance to isolate the shorty, especially given his high PFR.

As played, I'd bet $375 or so on the turn, getting good value, but still giving off the impression that you don't necessarily have the nuts.

I considered that line, but actually felt it would help balloon the pot more than my approach did. I may have a lot of outs, but I only have 2 outs to the nuts. If I had a monster hand/draw, I was going for a check-raise, because it traps the button in for $35.25 before facing my raise, and possibly worse if he elects to out-right raise. I felt that there would be an increased possibility that the button would reach the psychological point where he felt "pot committed" than if he faced a lead bet from me.

I'm also not fearing a raise from the button with my lead-out bet. Since he plays so straight forward in a pot like this, he's only raising the exact hands that would have me crushed (either he has a better draw, or top set). I was planning on folding to a pot raise from him (it's an incorrect fold if he has a set, but his range is either monster draw or set, and I am happy to fold to that range there... especially OOP). My concern with planning the check-raise, is that he has a larger raise range if he sees the other big stack (me) check, and the two short stacks go allin for $35. He may be wanting to protect a moderate hand against me tagging along. Now in this case, I am ahead of his raising range here, an I have two choices:

1) Call... in which case, I have no info to narrow down his range at all. In this case, I *happen* to luck out with a gin turn card, but I would be left in a very awkward position if I hit a Jack or a heart for a non-nut hand, or if I whiff the turn completely.

2) Check-raise... in this case, the range of hands with which he will call my check-raise is again that ugly, narrow range that gives me troubles (super-draws and sets)

The bottom line here is that if I opted for a check-raise, then I would end up only with the button staying with the hand when he had me on the flop (set or monster draw), and in these cases, he would probably put me to a decision to play for stacks on that flop (and I would only have found this out after committing a *lot* more than my open lead range of $120 to $210).

Button never "has you" here. That's the whole point. Either you have 17 outs against top set or he's got a big draw where you've got a lot of his outs blocked and your KK has a pretty good chance of holding up. I think it's just the absolute value of the money involved that's causing you to play scared here. If this were a raised pot with $400 stacks instead of a reraised pot with $1200 stacks would you really be considering folding KK + K-hi flush draw + OESD when you're reasonably sure your opponent doesn't have AA?

BTW: You have 6 outs to the nuts, not 2.